THE GERMAN SHEPHERD SENTINEL

JUNE 2005 - NEWSLETTER OF THE

GSDC OF GREATER RALEIGH

Pat Embrey, Newsletter Editor

1390 Sanders Road, Benson, NC 27504

PH: 919-934-6232, E-Mail: VonRillca@aol.com

Website: www.gsdcofgrraleigh.org

 

 

Table of Contents

       1.    Board Policy on Dogs at Club Sponsored Events

       2.    June Meeting Information

       3.    April Minutes

       4.    May Minutes

       5.   German Shepherd Dog – Did You Know?

       6.   Characteristics of the German Shepherd Dog

       7.   The German Shepherd Dog; Ailments Common to the Breed

       8.   A Snake Bites Your Dog – What Should You Do?

       9.   Dog Tricks to Keep You and Your Pet Stimulated

      10.  Basic Care and Grooming of the German Shepherd Dog

 

 

BOARD POLICY ON DOGS AT CLUB SPONSORED EVENTS

The GSDC of Greater Raleigh welcomes your German Shepherd at our events, including meetings.  However, the following rules must be followed: 

1.        Anyone with an aggressive dog (one that growls, snaps, or is in any way aggressive towards other dogs or people) must be muzzled. 

2.       Dogs will be free of loose hair and external parasites (fleas or ticks). Please brush your dog prior to bringing it to the meeting as we must clean up the room after  we are finished.

3.       For the safety of all members, guests and their dogs, it is strongly recommended that all dogs be kept up to date on     their vaccinations.  ALL dogs that are old enough, MUST have a current rabies shot.

 

 

As some of you know I broke my wrist as I was leaving  the last meeting

and can’t type, so this Newsletter has been done by Mary Bjelica.  Thanks so very much Mary.  Your help is most appreciated. 

 

 

JUNE MEETING INFORMATION

 

The next meeting of the GSDC of Greater Raleigh will be held on Wednesday, June 1st at the Exchange Park.  All German Shepherds are welcome to attend, along with their owners of course.  The program will consist of a lecture and demonstration by animal massage Sue King who is the owner of Companion Chi.  In addition to the program, we will draw a name for a free half hour pet massage – ONLY THOSE IN ATTENDANCE ARE ELIGIBLE FOR THE DRAWING. Refreshments for the June meeting will be furnished by Steve Martin.

 

 

GSDC of Greater Raleigh

Meeting Minutes

April 6, 2005

 

Program:  In place of a program, the club spent time discussing the March show and planning changes that will make it more successful.  This year attendance was down due to other shows being held in nearby states.  One idea is to have the show next year to coincide with the Tarheel show at the fairgrounds in Raleigh, using the facilities there and taking advantage of the advertising and draw it offers.  The Raleigh Kennel Club and the Durham Kennel Club have agreed and the cost would probably be about $50 each night.  Conformation and obedience could run at the same time in different rings.  This would be a trial of one year to see how it goes and The AKC will allow a club to hold a date for one year only and then the club could choose to go back to the standard date or switch to the new one.  Our show would run that Friday and Saturday night, now starting on Friday at about 7pm.  We will know in the next couple of weeks if this will work out so that we can let the Raleigh Police Club know if we will need their facility.  Also it will be necessary to amend our insurance policies if we combine our show with the Tarheel show.

 

Business Meeting:  The Nationals will be held the last day of October and first week of November this year in Concord, North Carolina.  The herding portion will be in Durham.  Volunteers are needed for this event.  Also a microchip clinic will be held at Nationals this year if you are interested. 

 

Also, club members are urged to be involved in any legislation that may impact us with respect to dog ownership.  The Tailwaggers is a new group looking at what may be coming up to alert club members to contact their legislators and let them know what they think.

 

Treasurer’s Report:  Sara asks that club members get their invoices in from the show so they can be paid promptly.  Bill Pfeiffer says we should charge a portion of our insurance policy cost to the show costs.

 

 

GSDC of Greater Raleigh

Meeting Minutes

May 4, 2005

 

Program:  A video of the AKC standard for the German Shepherd dog was shown.  It included both the physical characteristics judges look for in the dog as well as the character standard that is included in the judging.

 

Business Meeting:  Pat reported on the National’s show to be held in Concord, NC October 30 through November 6 this year.  We as a club will donate $140 to sponsor the trophies for an entire class.  Also she had a request from the GSD Charitable Foundation for donations to a silent auction to be held at the National’s, but the club will not participate until the organization is able to get their administration expenses in line.

 

Bill Pfeiffer discussed next year’s show we hope to hold at the same time as the Tarheel Show.  He has talked to the Durham Kennel Club and the Raleigh Kennel Club and has their support.  He also plans to talk to the Fayetteville Kennel Club which will have it’s show on that Sunday.  Also he talked about the Obedience segment of the show, which he recommends that we hold as all-breed shows both days, especially the rally obedience, which is very hot right now, so much so that the AKC has increased their fee to $3.  Since our premium list is GSD only, we will need to include information on the all-breed obedience with the Tarheel circuit mailing.  Bill recommends we go ahead and schedule the conformation segment of our show now and decide on the obedience particular later, even perhaps only holding obedience one evening if we are unable to find enough people to help with the show.  We can perhaps have MBF (Moss-Bow) to donate the mats for the conformation if we provide the labor.  Hopefully we can also have the kitchen stay open, since the show would start both nights around 6:30pm or 7 pm and go until about 9pm.  Bill will go ahead and submit the paperwork, but we need to designate a show secretary.  We hopefully will be able to get a 5-point show from this added exposure.

 

Also Bill reported that the AKC is working on new graphics for the GSD standard and asked for input from club members.  The NC Federation of Dog Clubs is watching legislation in the NC Senate, one that says that a dog is your property and you are not simply it’s “caretaker”.  Also there is a bill about public and private animal shelters that could impact breeders in a negative way.  The FAA has put into effect new regulations for shipment of animals that could impact some club members.

 

Treasurer’s Report:  Sarah reported that the club lost money on its’ March 2005 show.  The changes planned for next year should address this. 

 

 

GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG – DID YOU KNOW?

 

• The German Shepherd Dog is distinguished for loyalty, courage, and the ability to assimilate and retain training for a number of special services; he is not pugnacious, as his reputation posits him to be, but a bold and punishing fighter if need be.
• The German Shepherd Dog is one of the most popular and recognizable breeds of the AKC.
• German Shepherd Dogs are utilized often as police dogs, service dogs, agility dogs, conformation animals, obedience dogs, and sentinels. Their high trainability and extreme loyalty and commitment make them an excellent choice for any agenda.
• In terms of show presentation, the German Shepherd Dog has a unique stack or "pose", featuring one rear leg under the body and one extended, as opposed to conventional "square" stacks (parallel front and rear) or extended stacks.
• The German Shepherd Dog has been in the public eye and media many times, recognizable as "Rin Tin Tin" and other canine characters.
• The German Shepherd Dog does not give affection lightly and is known for his dignity and stature; it is also known as a "one-man" breed for its tendency to display serious loyalty and fidelity, especially to its owner or main caretaker.

AKC Website: http://www.akc.org/breeds/german_shepherd_dog/did_you_know.cfm

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG

Just a reminder to owners and potential owners of a German Shepherd dog(s).  What a German Shepherd IS and IS NOT.

 

The German Shepherd Dog is characterized by its superior intelligence, versatility, stability, energy, and strength to do almost any task. Coupled with its high trainability, curiosity, classical beauty, and undying loyalty, the German Shepherd is one of the most popular and widely accepted breeds of purebred dog in the world.

 

What a German Shepherd IS NOT:

not a backyard dog not a kennel dog not low energy not highly sociable with strangers

not able to thrive without training not able to thrive with long hours alone not able to thrive when neglected not submissive to other dogs

What a German Shepherd IS:

family dog companion working dog territorial protective loyal

a dog who needs to be involved in your life a dog who thrives with something "to do" sociable with children energetic

 

http://www.savegsd.org/about_gsds.htm

AILMENTS COMMON TO THE BREED

Degenerative Myelopathy: Degenerative Myelopathy is an autoimmune-based, progressive neurological disease affecting the spinal cord. It appears with relative frequency only in the German Shepherd Dog; therefore, a hereditary factor is likely but not yet proven. A general reduction in mobility starting in the rear of the dog is noted. DM is the apparent canine equivalent of Multiple Sclerosis in humans. It is usually associated with dogs over the age of 7. Minimal available treatments are supportive only.

Epilepsy: Not all causes of convulsions or seizures are hereditary. However many affected dogs are thought to be genetically predisposed. Treatment's success is depending on the cause. Maintenance treatment can consist of scheduled Phenobarbital (relatively inexpensive) and occasional blood testing.

Gastric Dilatation Volvulous, Torsion/Bloat: Gastric Dilatation Volvulous, Torsion/Bloat is an acute disease or digestive problem associated with the formation of a large amount of gas in the gastrointestinal tract. Bloat is a serious life-threatening emergency requiring immediate veterinary attention. It is thought to be associated with eating, although some dogs bloat several hours following a meal. Bloat occurs in many breeds, usually in dogs over 40 pounds, and slightly more often in males than females. Veterinarians attempt to pass a tube into the stomach via the throat to relieve pressure, and if this is unsuccessful surgery is required.

Hip and/or Elbow Dysplasia: This is a condition not exclusive to GSD's; it is found in many medium to giant sized breeds. Dysplasia is largely caused by genetic predisposition, thought possibly to be affected by environmental factors (care & feeding) during a pup's development. Hip and or elbow dysplasia can be crippling, cause minor occasional abnormal gait, lameness, or produce no symptoms whatsoever depending on the severity. Hips do not form a normal "ball and socket" joint, and the resulting lack of correct cartilage formation and wear may create osteo-arthritic changes sometimes requiring medication or joint surgery depending on the case. Elbow dysplasia or "ununited anconeal process" is a condition which results from a fragment of bone that does not fuse as it should during the dog's development. Intermittent lameness can occur and surgery is sometimes required. X-rays of dog's hips and elbows are rated by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals for the purposes of evaluating suitability for breeding. Passing dogs are given a rating and certified by the OFA.

Panosteitis: "Pano" is a developmental/growth condition of the long bone(s). It is not exclusive to GSD's and is found in large or giant breed dogs usually under 24 months of age. It can cause complete or partial lameness in any leg(s) for a number of days or weeks and then will sometimes appear in a different limb or recur after apparent recovery. Hence the common name for Pano: "wandering lameness." Diagnosis should be confirmed by an x-ray, and treatment overseen by a veterinarian. The vast majority of dogs affected make a full recovery with minimal extra care in a short time.

Pancreatic Enzyme Insufficiency – Malabsorption: This condition is apparently exclusive to GSD's. It is a non-curable but treatable disorder of the gastrointestinal tract often, but not always, accompanied by diarrhea and severe weight loss. It is diagnosed by blood test. The dog's pancreas does not produce the digestive enzymes required for the dog to absorb nutrition from normal dog foods. Prescribed digestive enzymes must supplement a specific diet at each meal throughout the dog's lifetime in order to maintain adequate weight and condition. The condition can be accompanied by a bacterial overgrowth requiring ongoing antibiotic treatment. Maintenance care is expensive and expected lifespan can be affected.

Pannus: Pannus is a form of corneal inflammation that affects both eyes and occasionally can result in blindness. It is characterized by a pink membrane growing across the cornea. It appears primarily in GSD's and GSD crosses over the age of two. Steroids or surgery may be prescribed.

Perianal Fistulas: Fistulas are open draining tracts and sores in the perianal skin. They first appear as one or more "pinholes" in the skin surrounding the anus, with some exudate from the holes. The condition is most common in German Shepherds, but is by no means limited to that breed. Although the causes of the disease are still unknown, the current understanding is that it is probably an autoimmune disorder, much like Crohn's disease in humans. Treatments have changed /progressed greatly in the last two to three years. Currently, the most common treatments are medical regimes, using Imuran/flagyl, or cyclosporin, or topical tacrolimus. The website devoted to PF, which contains readable/printable veterinary journal articles detailing studies of these treatments, including treatment dosages, and which has success stories and a list/support group, is http://members.tripod.com/~perianal-fistulas (beware of the many pop-ups on this site!). The disease is serious, and likely chronic, but with treatment many dogs live comfortably to old age, especially if it is diagnosed early.

Thyroid Disorders: Thyroid disorders are found occasionally in the German Shepherd Dog. Most are highly manageable and the treatment is not expensive, though lifelong. Hypothyroidism can cause the coat to become thin, coarse, and brittle. The dog may become lethargic, obese and dull. A dog with mild deficiency may show little or no outward sign of it. Diagnosis is by blood test. Dogs with poor thyroid function should not reproduce, as this disorder is genetically linked and perpetuated. Untreated thyroid disorder is associated with several health problems.

Von Willebrand's Disease: This is the most common hereditary bleeding disorder in dogs. The bleeding is caused by a deficiency of a plasma protein that is critical for normal platelet function in the early stages of clotting. Diagnosis is by blood test. GSD's should be screened for this disorder prior to breeding.

http://www.savegsd.org/about_gsds_ailments.htm

 

 

 

SNAKE BITES

This article by T. J. Dunn, Jr. DVM appeared in the January, 2002 issue of Dog World Magazine

We are all familiar with situations where a dog happens to bite another dog or even a human.  These occurrences are always scary.  For me, the most heart-stimulating bite cases are the ones where the headline might read “Dog Bites Vet”.

Did you know that each year in the United States, over one million animal-bite wounds are reported? Dogs and cats inflict the vast majority.  On occasion the tables get turned on our canine friends though, and without warning they are recoiling from the pain inflicted by sharp, poison-injecting fangs.  Caught off guard, it is a moment you will never forget if you and your dog encounter a poisonous snake while simply taking a pleasant walk in the outdoors.

Snakebites are a fact of life for dogs and humans in a wide area of North America. Venomous snakes bite about 8,000 people annually in the USA, but according to most estimates, only 12 to 15 of these bites are fatal.  You won’t find details on the numbers of dogs bitten, or killed, by venomous snakes, though.  I asked Michael Schaer, DVM, Professor of Veterinary Internal Medicine at the University of Florida, College of Veterinary Medicine, about the numbers of dogs bitten or killed by snakes in the USA. He responded  “I don't believe we have a valid source of information on the actual numbers of dogs bitten or killed by snakes annually in the United States because there is no central data resource for this.”  In his twenty-two years as the lead clinician handling snake bites at the veterinary school, Dr. Schaer estimates about a 20 percent fatality rate for dogs bitten by the Eastern Diamondback and the Eastern Coral snakes.

Although there surely are isolated areas of the United States where venomous snakes are not plentiful, their range spreads all across the country with only Alaska and Hawaii reporting no species of the poisonous kind. Many cases of snakebite occur in dogs that are “just visiting” a part of the country where poisonous snakes are plentiful.  It has happened that dog owners who reside in an area devoid of poisonous snakes are shocked into reality when visiting an area where venomous snakes reside! 

 TYPES OF POISONOUS SNAKES

The Unites States has fifteen species of rattlesnakes; two kinds of water moccasins, the copperhead and cottonmouth; and two kinds of coral snakes.  The six types described here make a good representation of the venomous snakes present in the USA.

Fortunately, if your dog happens to be bitten by a poisonous snake the odds are in favor of a complete recovery.  The degree of damage inflicted by a venomous snake is determined by a wide variety of variables.  The age and species of snake, the intensity and depth of the fang penetration, the amount of venom injected, the location of the bite, and the size of the dog are just a few of the variables.  In general, snakes want to be left alone. But along comes an inquisitive dog probing every mysterious hole in the ground, sniffing under downed logs, slogging along the riverbank, and digging up leafy patches on the forest floor... and a lightening strike of the serpentine kind may be the result!

WHAT SHOULD YOU DO in the event a snake bites your dog?
First, let me tell you what not to do.  Do not take out your pocketknife and cut Xs over the fang marks!  Do not attempt to suck venom through those X marks.  Do not grab the snake in a fit of anger and attempt to choke it to death.  You may be bitten yourself.

PLEASE DO...
*  Try to identify the snake by taking note of its size, color patterns and the presence or absence of a rattle at the end of the tail.
*  Look the dog over carefully for fang marks, noting that there may be more than one bite wound.
*  If bitten on a leg, wrap a constricting band on the affected limb snugly at a level just above the bite wound (on the body side of the wound).  This band could be fashioned of a shirtsleeve or other fabric and should be snug but not excessively tight.
*  Start your journey to the nearest animal hospital while trying to keep the dog as quiet as possible.

PREVENTING SNAKE BITES
*  While out walking, controlling your dog with a leash may be your best safety device.
*  Do not allow your dog to explore holes in the ground or dig under logs, flat rocks or planks.
*  Stay on open paths where there is an opportunity for snakes to be visible.
*  Keep nighttime walks to a minimum; rattlers are nocturnal most of the year.
*  If you hear a rattlesnake, keep your dog at your side until you locate the snake; then move away.
*  Off-trail hiking with an unleashed dog may stir up a snake and you may be as likely a victim as your dog.
*  If your dog seems unusually curious about “something” hidden in the grass, back off immediately until you know what it is.

WHAT IS VENOM?
Venom is a toxic fluid created in specialized oral glands related to salivary glands, and the toxic component is composed of an array of complex proteins. Every snake’s venom contains more than one toxin, and in combination the toxins have a more potent effect than the sum of their individual effects.  Most of the toxic effects are due to the enzymes in the venom and there have been about twenty-five enzymes discovered so far. Venoms are of two types, either neurotoxic (affecting the nervous system) or hemotoxic (affecting the blood and vessels).  The venom of many snakes contain both neurotoxic and hemotoxic components.

WHAT DOES VENOM DO?
Venomous snakebites cause severe pain, cell death, numbness, diminished function and, occasionally, loss of a limb. Snake venoms inflict local effects such as inflammation, damage to blood vessel lining, clotting defects and localized tissue destruction. Some venom can also cause neurotoxicity and interfere with nerve transmission resulting in paralysis.

WHAT IS ANTIVENIN?
Antivenin is a serum that is commercially produced to neutralize the effects of the injected venom.  At special laboratories healthy horses are injected with increasing amounts of selected snake venom (non-fatal, of course), gradually challenging the horse to make more antibodies.  To obtain these antibodies, a small amount of blood is later removed from the horse and the protein antibodies are separated out and purified.  A specific antibody is produced for each type of snake. According the Dr. Schaer the newer antivenins are ovine derived and very expensive at $1500 per 2 vials.  Severe envenomations might require as many as 10 vials.

SNAKE BITE KITS
Should dog owners carry antivenin kits with them routinely while outside with their dogs?  Probably not says Dr. Schaer. “An antivenin kit probably wouldn't be that practical because of expense, routes of administration and other important reasons.”  Most antivenin products are targeted for a particular species of snake and may have no effect on the snake that bites your dog.

Vigilance and keeping control of your dog when walking in areas inhabited by poisonous snakes will be your best deterrent to a snake encounter.  It’s not a bad idea to memorize your veterinarian’s emergency phone number, too!

_____________________________________________________________________________________

DOG TRICKS

http://users.tkk.fi/~mtt/belg_tricks.html#balance

Although this information was written with the Belgian Sheepdog in mind, I think a German Shepherd dog might find these exercises interesting.

 Following is a collection of things that you can do with your dog when you don't have the time for 'serious' training, or when your dog already seems to have mastered the 'more serious' things and you just want to have fun with him, or especially if your dog seems bored with all the things that he already knows and spends his spare time barking, chewing etc.

Remember that the tricks are mainly meant to give your dog some meaningful activity -- this means two things:

1. Don't bore your dog with these tricks, only do them as long as you both are having fun, and when he has mastered one thing, think of something new instead of just repeating the old routines;
2. Some of them may require lots of time to learn. Don't worry, that's exactly why they are so useful -- in order to master the trick your dog needs to concentrate very much and use his brain! Progress in small steps if needed, and don't forget to reward your dog when he makes progress!

Useful Tricks

Have you already put an obedience title on your dog and can't think of any new useful tricks to teach him? Here are some suggestions!

·         If your dog already knows how to heel on your left, teach him to heel on your right or to walk right behind you. These may be useful in crowds, narrow corridors, etc., and heeling on the right is also needed in Agility. Remember to use a new command for heeling on the 'wrong' side!

·         Teach your dog to lift up each of his feet on command ('right-front' etc.) This is useful when you clip his nails, or need to wash or wipe him, etc.

·         Are you tired of collecting all of your dog's chew toys, tennis balls, squeaky toys, teddy bears etc. when your parents-in-law or your non-dog-loving boss is coming for dinner? Teach your dog to do it himself! He can learn to pick up all of his toys and put them into a box on command.

·         If you live somewhere where it rains frequently, you probably already hate the way your dog shakes his coat dry when he is close to you or your clean laundry etc.? You can teach him to do that on command so that you can ask him to 'shake!' or 'rock'n'roll!' :-) when he is standing a little bit further away.

·         Is your duty in the family to wake everybody up in the morning -- a routine which often requires lots of time and effort, and is never appreciated? Teach your dog to do it for you! "Go wake up Jane!" "Go wake up Daddy!" and your dog licks their faces or pokes them with his nose until they are awake.

·         If you live alone and sometimes fall asleep again after turning off the alarm clock in your sleep, you can teach your dog to start licking and poking you at the sound of your alarm clock.

·         Everybody's heard of the classical trick where a dog fetches slippers or a newspaper, but what about letting your dog 'answer the phone' (lift up the receiver for you), put an empty beer bottle back in the box, or carry some other things on command? (It's possible to teach a dog to identify a very large number of objects by names).

·         When you go out for a walk, let your dog fetch his own collar and/or leash. My Belgian Sheepdog Apollo gets his collar from the shelf when I say "collar!". Some people say that dogs may learn to get their collar and leash also when _they_ want to get out, without any commands from humans, but that hasn't happened to us yet.

·          (Jenny Cole invented a trick which is both fun and useful:) Teach your dog to stop and look before crossing a road. You can first teach your dog the directions ("look right" and "look left"), and then combine the commands to sit and to look right-left-right (remember that Jenny lives in Britain, continental European dogs will have to learn to look left-right-left!) before given the permission to cross. (Jenny uses the command "Any cars coming?" for the entire trick). If you are consistent with your training, you can possibly condition your dog not to start crossing the road as long as he sees cars approaching, which would make this trick also extremely useful.

·         Linda Bergstrom taught Corey, her 10-year-old Malinois, to "back up". I can't think how many times he's been in the way when I've been carrying something or heading through a doorway with a Mal in the middle of it. With this command, I can give him a simple command to "back up", which gets him out of the way and also earns him some praise -- instead of him receiving human "growls" because he's in the way.

Tricks for Fun

These are not meant to be useful (some of them may be, sometime), but just fun for you and your dog, or maybe for some neighborhood kids if you want to show them how smart your dog is.  I'm pretty sure all dog owners have some special 'silly tricks' that they do with their dogs but maybe never show anyone.

·         "Give a kiss" or "hug" -- your dog gives you (or somebody else!) a wet kiss or puts his paws on your shoulder. This is great when you meet someone who thinks that "that dog looks vicious!"

·         "Sit up" or "dance" are quite common tricks (dog gets up on his hind legs), but you can also teach him a more unusual command for this -- for example, ask your dog "What does a CIRCUS-DOG do??" to make him dance for you!

·         "Message Dog" is one of the Scandinavian dog sports not practised elsewhere, but you can do similar exercises for fun. This can even be useful in some situations, especially if you teach your dog to actually carry something with him. The idea is that the dog runs from person A to person B on command, then back to person B, etc. In the Scandinavian competitions this always starts so that person A walks away from person B with the dog, then sends the dog back (in the beginning the dog sees person B from where he is sent to run, in the more advanced version he does not). When person B sends the dog back to person A, it is possible that person A has moved to a new location -- then the dog needs to do some tracking in order to find person A. You can easily invent your own varieties of this game, depending on how challenging you want it to be (in the Scandinavian competitions we have several dogs simultaneously darting back and forth for distances of several kilometres and with some shooting in the background!)

·         Nodding or shaking head -- you can teach your dog to do these. These are more fun if you don't ask him to 'nod' but rather teach him to nod on cue like "I'm so smart and beautiful, don't you AGREE?"

·         "Nose-ball" -- teach your dog to push a tennis ball to you with his nose. This is a great 'living room activity' for rainy days!

·         Soccer: Dawn Carla Speer has trained her dogs to play soccer with people: The fun thing about soccer is that each dog will come up with a different way of handling the ball to get around the fact that it's too big to get their jaws around. Dogs learn to use their nose or/and paws to get the ball moving, and you can have several people playing the game with the dog.

·         Volley ball: If you thought that soccer would be the most advanced ball game you can teach your Belgian, here's news for you: Lisa Baldwin has trained their Tervueren to play volley ball with people!:
Ice thinks the game is GREAT fun so we had to come up with some way to control his impulse to be involved with the game. We taught him "play outfield" at which he takes off running until far enough out and we say "swing" and he turns around and sits -- whenever the ball goes in his area he leaps up and tries to hit it back over the net!! If it doesn't make it he will push it over to the other teams side and then run back to his spot and wait for the next one.

·         Pointing at a treat: hide a treat in your hand, hold both hands in front of the dog and request him to point at the treat, either with his nose or foot.

·         Singing: some dogs "sing" very easily especially if they hear high tones. Some dogs can be trained to make different kinds of weird noises, especially the more vocal breeds/individuals. In Finland there is a famous dog call Gizmo who performs with a symphony orchestra. He sits on the owner's lap and sings along with their music!
Dawn Carla Speer wrote: I could get Heike going for a couple of minutes straight ... I would make different sounds -- sort of like the range of sounds you could get from a wah-wah pedal for a guitar -- and she would imitate them really closely. If I told her "Be indignant!" she would make lower pitched noises, and if I said "Shhhh..." she would just make the mouth movements with no sound at all.

·         "Speaking": many dogs can be trained to "speak" on command, and they can even be trained to bark loudly or more quietly. Stephanie Price's puppy owners taught their Belgian, Savana, the following dialogue:
"Savana, what does a big dog say?" -"WOOF!!!"
"What does a debarked dog say?" -"woof"

·         "Teddy Terv / Vicious Terv": Linda Baldwin's husband taught their Tervueren Ice the following trick: We kneel down (so theres a lap) and say "Teddy Terv" and he flings himself on to his back, belly exposed for scratching. Then in the same normal sounding voice we say "Vicious Terv" and he leaps to his feet growling and biting (not hard) and being very wolf doggish (thats what we call it anyway!)... then you say "Teddy Terv" again and he flings himself in your lap etc etc.

·         Many owners play with their dogs games where they hide the dog's favorite toy etc. under a blanket for the dog to find. Some people hide other family members under blankets, or simply their own hand for the "catch the mouse"-game.
Carilee Cole has her own version of the hiding game: This is called "The Triperooni Game". This can only be played by a dog named "Trip". You huddle on the floor with your head buried under your arms and sing, "Triperooni, Triperooni" to the tune of the Hallelujah chorus, and the Trip will come racing over and excavate your head out from under your arms using his nose as a shovel. It's lots of fun, honest... Well, maybe you had to be there!

Problem Solving

·         Opening boxes -- you can put a treat into a box and let your dog try to get it out. Start with boxes without a lid, and progress to freezer box -type boxes with a lid that can be opened by pulling on the side. (And be prepared to have tooth marks all over the box, you may even end up with the box in zillion pieces!). This is a good exercise if you are busy doing something (getting ready to go to work etc.), because you don't actually need to do anything when the dog is working on the task.

·         Finding the way out: Go to the other side of a fence etc. so that your dog can't get to you directly but instead needs to find a way to get to you (without jumping over the fence). (You can also do this inside, if there's a room with two doors). Don't help your dog to find his way to you, because then he'll learn to expect help from you. Naturally you can't do this many times at one place.

·         Opening doors: teach your dog to either push a door that is ajar open with his nose or to use his paws on the handle to open the door. Note: the dog may scratch the door when opening them; also after learning this, he may open doors also when you don't expect it!

Nose Work (Scenting)

Dogs love using their noses, and nose work requires lots of concentration -- these exercises are great for hyperactive dogs. Some people fear that actual tracking is too difficult or time consuming, so here are some less elaborate ways of doing basically the same thing!

·         You can hide treats in your house for your dog to find. The most convenient way to practice this game is to teach your dog to sit still while you go to another room (or several rooms) and hide a treat.

·         When you go for a walk with your dog, you can sometimes stop and hide treats for him. It's easiest if your dog sits waiting while you hide the treat in the grass, behind a tree etc., and only starts searching when you give the permission. You can make this more difficult by sometimes hiding the treats on low branches of trees, on fences, etc. so that your dog really has to do some work in order to find and get the treat. And remember that you are doing this in order to give the dog some work to do, so don't help him if it seems to take a long time to find the treat (otherwise he'll learn to expect help from you!)

·         Instead of hiding treats, you can hide your dog's favorite toy and ask him to find it. If you would like this to resemble 'real' tracking, drop the toy (or treat) on the track where you walk (= on your footstep) and don't come back to your dog the same route. This is the way puppies can be introduced to tracking.

·         Another variation of the hiding treats to be found is to hide a favorite toy or ball and reward the dog with a brief game when she finds it. The next step is to hide similar, and gradually, quite different objects for the dog to find and retrieve. Lots of fun, can be practical (if you teach object names :) and teaches your beastie to carry all manner of strange things for you... (Sue also mentions how creative dogs get when they learn to find toys hidden in difficult places like bathroom sinks.)

·         You can teach your dog to pick up an object with your scent when it is among strange objects. You can do with this sticks, stones, etc. in order to facilitate the availability of non-scented objects.

·         Hide and seek -- teach your dog to find a person who is hiding in another room, behind a tree, etc. (He can use air scenting, or tracking, or both, depending on where you are practicing.) Kids love this.

Balance Work

Everything that is done in Agility could be listed under this category, but because very few people have the agility equipment at home, this list consists of tricks that can be done without very complicated equipment.

• Jumping -- easy and great fun, can be practiced almost anywhere. You can do this with young dogs as well, as long as you avoid high jumps. (Really, you can ask you puppy to jump over a paperback book in your living room! But avoid jumps higher than the dog's withers until he is full grown.) When you make progress, you can ask your dog to jump over tree trunks, stones, small fences, ditches, etc.
• Climbing stairs, ladders etc. If your dog is afraid of walking steep stairs, practice this with him -- ask him to walk up and down the stairs wherever you see challenging-looking stairs. The more advanced version is to walk up and down doggie-ladders or similar. Remember to be careful with these exercises so that your dog doesn't get hurt if he is unsure of himself (support and slow him down especially in the beginning).
• Balance-walking -- ask your dog to walk on a narrow plank, tree trunk etc. Start with broader objects and very moderate heights.
• Treat-on-the-nose -- teach your dog to balance a treat on his nose until you give him a permission to eat it.

 

BASIC CARE AND GROOMING OF THE GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG

Exercise Requirements: All dogs should receive daily physical and mental exercise sessions. German Shepherds need both in order to be happy, and consequently, keep their owners happy. Depending on the age and activity level of the particular dog, physical exercise might amount to throwing a ball for 10 to 30 minutes in the backyard or dog park and/or going for a walk around the block or the neighborhood.

Mental exercise is an important factor in creating a well-balanced German Shepherd Dog. Obedience sessions, learning new exercises including play breaks, make them fun for both dog and owner. Positive training can be incorporated into the dog's daily life to the enjoyment of all concerned. Interesting, indestructible, dog appropriate toys should also be provided. For example, many shepherds enjoy a hard rubber toy called a "Kong" available at many pet supply stores. Kongs come with instructions on how to fill with appropriate goodies to keep the dog interested and prevent boredom-related destructive behaviors.

Grooming: The shepherd is a "double-coated" breed. It has a "down" type undercoat next to the skin, with longer, coarse hair as an outer shell. Under normal conditions, the shepherd will only require regular brushing, and an occasional bath. Diet plays a significant part in coat condition, so feeding quality foods will help prevent any skin problems.

Brushing: The shepherd can easily be brushed from start to finish in 10 minutes or less, provided it is brushed 3-4 times per week. Time and frequency will vary according to coat length and condition. Although long coats are considered a fault, some shepherds do sport long hair and will require more extensive brushing, more often. Use a wire "slicker" brush available at most pet stores, or coat grooming rake, and brush with the grain of the coat. Regular brushing and handling will teach your shepherd to stand quietly and enjoy these sessions.

Bathing: Shepherds will need baths rather infrequently, provided they are fed quality food and brushed regularly. One bath per month should suffice. During flea season it is sometimes necessary to bathe more often as part of a complete program to control pests. Please do not bathe more frequently than every 10 days or so as over-bathing will strip the coat of it's natural oils. It is also important to use a shampoo made for dogs, as their "pH" is different from shampoo meant for people.

Toenails: Your shepherd will also need to have his toenails, ears, and teeth attended to. If your dog runs on pavement daily, you probably won't have a problem with nails. However you should check the nails on a weekly basis (while you are brushing) to avoid future headaches caused by split or broken nails left growing too long. Commercial nail trimmers for dogs are available at any pet supply store. Most black and tan shepherds will have black toenails. These are usually hard in density, and will hide the "quick" (small vein that feeds the nail). It is better to trim off small amounts of nail a little at a time. If you cut the nail too short it is painful for your dog and he will bleed. If you do cut the quick of your dog, use styptic powder, scrape the nail against a bar of soap, or press cornstarch firmly into the quick to stop the bleeding. Have one of these items on hand, and within easy reach when trimming.

Ears: Ears should be checked and cleaned at least weekly. Your vet has products that will dissolve excess wax when used regularly. To clean excess wax and dirt simply deposit a few drops of the ear solution into each ear, massage the base of the ear for a few seconds, and then wipe out any debris with soft tissues or a cotton pad. The remaining solution will be shaken out by the dog or will evaporate quickly. The ear solution is inexpensive and should be purchased from your vet.

Try to avoid getting water in your shepherd's ears as it will sit at the bottom of the ear canal and can create infection. The ear solution helps keep ears dry. Prevention is the key to maintaining healthy ears.

Teeth: Check your shepherd's teeth once a month or more, and during your yearly vet check-up. Teeth will accumulate tartar over the years, and will need to be cleaned occasionally. Feeding hard "cookies" will help keep teeth and gums healthy.

Try to brush your shepherd's teeth at least three times a week and every day if possible. Follow these steps to get your dog used to a brushing routine.

Step 1: Acquaint your dog with the process. Begin slowly, merely touching the muzzle and lifting the lips to expose the teeth and gums. Over a few days, begin handling the mouth gently, and eventually stroke the dog's teeth and gums with a finger.

Step 2: Introduce the toothbrush and toothpaste. Always use an edible toothpaste specifically formulated for dogs; do not share your own toothpaste (which is not meant to be swallowed) with your dog. Place a small amount of toothpaste on your finger and allow the dog to sample the taste. Then, apply a small amount to the teeth and gums. When you can touch all of the teeth, place a small amount of toothpaste on the brush and gently brush one tooth and adjoining gumline.

Step 3: Begin brushing. Gradually increase the number of teeth brushed, working your way to the back molars. The dog's mouth may remain closed - the accumulation of plaque occurs mainly on the outside of the teeth. Angle the brush at a 45° angle toward the gumline and use small back-and-forth or circular strokes, gently brushing all of the teeth. Once the habit of toothbrushing has been established, brush the teeth every day if possible.

http://www.savegsd.org/about_gsds_care.htm