THE GERMAN SHEPHERD SENTINEL
JANUARY 2007 - NEWSLETTER
OF THE
GSDC OF GREATER RALEIGH
Pat Embrey, Newsletter Editor
1390 Sanders Road, Benson, NC 27504
PH: 919-934-6232, E-Mail: VonRillca@aol.com
Website: www.gsdcofgrraleigh.org
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Board Policy on Dogs at Club Sponsored Events
2. January 2007 Meeting Information
3. Meeting Minutes – November 2006
4. Changes in Behavior Associated with Aging in Dogs
5. Building Confidence in A Shy Dog
6. It Simply Works
BOARD POLICY ON DOGS AT CLUB SPONSORED EVENTS
The GSDC of Greater Raleigh welcomes your German Shepherd at our events, including meetings. However, the following rules must be followed:
1. Anyone with an aggressive dog (one that growls, snaps, or is in any way aggressive towards other dogs or people) must be muzzled.
2. Dogs will be free of loose hair and external parasites (fleas or ticks). Please brush your dog prior to bringing it to the meeting as we must clean up the room after we are finished.
3. For the safety of all members, guests and their dogs, it is strongly recommended that all dogs be kept up to date on their vaccinations. ALL dogs that are old enough, MUST have a current rabies shot.
January 2007 Meeting Information
The next meeting of the GSDC of Greater Raleigh will be held at the Exchange Park on Spring Forest Road in Raleigh at 7:00 PM for socialization and 7:30 PM for the Program and Meeting. The meeting will be held this one time on Wednesday, January 17, 2007 and in February will resume on the first Wednesday of the month, which is the 7th.
Our program this time will consist of a DVD from the Orthopedic Foundation of America (OFA) on the evaluation of Hips and Elbows for Dysplasia from that Organization. This should be a very informative DVD. Plus we will be having a further discussion of some of the problems that might be cropping up concerning our Conformation Shows to be held the latter part of March.
All members are urged to attend, and bring your dogs.
Pat Embrey will be furnishing the refreshments.
Meeting Minutes - November 1, 2006
Meeting: No program was planned for this evening. Deeda talked about preparations in place for our March 2007 show. She was able to shop for prizes, trophies and judges gifts at the National show last month and has pretty much wrapped up all of it for around $200. Also Bill Pfeiffer reported that he is still working on getting the number of dogs we can have entered in that show increased from the AKC 50 maximum to 65 maximum. We already have a good slate of judges lined up for March.
As a gift to our two members we have voted to honor this year for all their service to our club, we are planning on taking them to dinner on a night decided on by them. Thanks to Bill Pfeiffer and Mary Bjelica for all they have done to help our club this year!
Deeda asked for ideas for next years programs to be forwarded to Mary so she can begin planning. Pat recommended a grooming class and a stewards class. Bill recommended a program on autoimmune diseases and the problem of vets giving shots to puppies just after they have had their shots from the breeders. Also the Parent Club has a “GSD Blue Book” just recently updated that includes lots of GSD information about health and genetics- the cost of the book is about $25 and on CD for $20. The Parent Club also publishes their “Red Book” annually about winning dogs and promising young dogs.
Deeda asked if the breeders in the club would be willing to pay for a 1 year membership to our local club when they sell a puppy. The Parent Club is planning to try the same thing by offering a ½ price membership to cover the cost of the magazine. Also Charlotte has a new GSD club forming- the old club had disbanded for some time but is now reforming.
Bill reported that the judges are in place for the Tarheel Circuit to be held March 20-25, 2007 in Raleigh. Royal Canaan helped us with a $500 donation for catering for our show in 2006, as well as trophies and raffle items in the form of dog food. Bill has put in a bid for our club to be sponsored by Royal Canaan in 2007 also.
Treasurer’s Report: Sara Bridges reported a new balance of $4,346.72. Bill has the trailer we are selling to him and is getting a quote on cost to repair it before he buys it.
Reminder: Our club’s annual Christmas Party is on December 6 at the Raggazi’s on Glenwood Ave. See you there.
December 6, 2006 Note
No meeting was held at the Christmas Party except to vote on the club officers for 2007. The current slate has agreed to return and was voted in unanimously.
Following is an article I got off the internet, however, I don’t remember where I got it and cannot correct the formatting so please forgive me, and just enjoy the content.
Changes in Behavior Associated With Aging in Dogs
An old dog is a special friend. We remember the times we shared and are often saddened by the changes we see. As our companions age, they undergo both physical and metabolic changes that affect our interaction with them. These physical and metabolic changes can often manifest themselves as behavioral changes. Understanding these changes can help increase our enjoyment of the "golden years."
Musculoskeletal ChangesThe aging dog undergoes many physical changes as time passes. Within the Musculoskeletal system these changes can be profound. Many older dogs develop arthritis in their joints and spondyliti changes the spine. Geriatric dogs also show a decrease in muscle mass. These changes may be accompanied by outward physical manifestations that the owner can see. When arthritis is present, the animal may limp or hold up the affected limb, or the joint may be painful to movement or touch. In the case of spondylitis, the animal may be unwilling or unable to go up and down stairs, jump on furniture, or even sit comfortably. These changes in mobility can then affect the dog's behavior. A dog that can no longer follow its owner from room to room may become depressed. Dogs are social animals and wish to be with their family, but if they are unable to do so because of mobility problems, they may suffer the effects of isolation. One solution may be to give the dog a resting place that is the center of activity and does not require the dog to move to be with people.
Because of loss of muscle mass, the older dog may need a softer place to lay down and may no longer be able to lay on a hard floor. This too needs to be considered so that the dog can join in with the family.
These musculoskeletal changes can make it difficult for older dogs to walk on smooth or slippery surfaces such as wood, tile, or linoleum floors. Non skid area rugs strategically placed may enable the dog to navigate the home.
Changes in the animal's joints can often be accompanied by pain. Some dogs show very little evidence of pain, while others become irritable. This irritability can lead to aggressive encounters with family members and visitors. In consultation with a veterinarian, medications can be given to decrease pain and therefore increase the dog's ability to interact with people. Accommodations in sleeping arrangements and walking surfaces need to be considered to maximize the dog's comfort and minimize pain.
Decreased mobility also affects how the pet may react to stressful events. Previously, the dog may have moved away from such a situation, but in its present condition, a lack of mobility or an unwillingness to move may require the dog to stay. This can result in a fearful situation for the dog that leads to aggression. One example is an older less mobile dog in a home with a new, very mobile baby. The dog may be unable or unwilling to get out of the way of the baby, yet it may find the constant intrusions of the child unwelcome. This may lead to aggression toward the baby in an attempt to get the child to leave. Carefully monitoring the interaction and watching the dog for signs of stress or fear are important. If the dog shows any of these reactions, then remove the dog from the situation for its comfort and the child's safety.
Visual Changes
Alterations also occur in the visual system of an elderly dog. The most common change is nuclear sclerosis, a hardening of the central portion of the lens that results in a clouding of the lens. While overall vision appears to be unaffected in advanced stages, a dog may have problems visualizing near objects, for example, food dropped on the floor.
The most common age-related visual change that results in a behavioral change is the formation of cataracts. This can result in a functional vision loss that is noticeable to the owner. One of the greatest difficulties for the blind dog is any change in routine. Often he navigates familiar surroundings very well, so well, in fact, that owners often are unaware at first that the dog is blind. When furniture is moved or the dog is taken to a new location, the owner then notices visual deficits. If the visual loss is coupled with a hearing loss, an area of concern is possible aggression if the dog is reached for or touched while sleeping. If the dog's hearing is intact, people should speak to the dog prior to touching it.
Hearing Changes
Deafness is another common condition that accompanies aging in dogs. Three common problems arise out of deafness. The first is a loss of control and ability to discipline the dog. A dog that was previously well trained may begin to be difficult to control. With time and patience. the dog can be taught to respond to hand signals for common commands such as sit, down and come. Occasionally, these dogs can still hear loud sounds or vibrations, and stamping the floor may be used to get their attention so that you can give the hand signal.
Secondly, some deaf dogs may begin to bark uncontrollably. Often this behavior is inadvertently encouraged by the owner who gives the dog food treats to stop the barking. A strategy that can be more effective is isolating the dog until the barking stops, even if it is only for a short time. As soon as it is quiet, let it out and reward the quiet behavior.
A third problem with deafness is the threat of automobiles. Many dogs seem to avoid cars by the sound, and when they are deaf, they are at extreme risk for injury, often in their own driveway.
House Soiling
House soiling can be a major problem in geriatric dogs, and one that frustrates owners. Kidney function does decline with age. There is also some evidence that the decline in kidney function is related to changes in the brain of elderly dogs. At the present time, a new drug being tested by Deprenyl Animal Health, Inc. (Overland Park, Ks.), seems to have an effect on inappropriate urination in geriatric dogs.
Concurrent medical problems need to be investigated to rule out metabolic causes of urinary incontinence or inappropriate elimination. For some older dogs, an increase in the frequency of access to the outside is helpful in controlling house soiling. If the dog must be left alone for long periods, paper training may be helpful. Often owners resort to isolation of the dog to avoid ruining household possessions. This can lead to other problems of loneliness or barking for attention. One possible solution is to keep the dog on a leash while with people so that it can alert someone to its need to go outside and cannot wander off to eliminate in the house.
Defecation can also be a problem due to loss of sphincter control. Dogs also respond to stress by soiling the house with stool. If the stress can be identified, the animal can be acclimated to the change and hopefully the house soiling will subside.
Mourning
Many animals today live in multi-pet households and therefore have house mates that they share experiences with well into old age. A common behavioral problem for older dogs is mourning for the loss of a house mate. Although there has not been a great deal of research on mourning in pets, it is well known that pets form attachments to other animals they live with, and anecdotal evidence indicates that animals grieve over the loss of their companions. For some animals this grieving process may be short, or it may not be evident or visible to the owner. For other animals, especially geriatric pets, mourning can be a real phenomenon with behavioral ramifications.
Dogs may undergo several behavioral changes after the loss of a companion. these include a decrease in appetite and activity, possible anxiety or restlessness, depression, or sleep disturbances. Some animals have been observed to be "searching" for the missing companion. While not all of these reactions occur, they are not uncommon. These changes often abate over time, especially if the owner attempts to follow a few of these suggestions.
Keep the routine as close to the previous routine as possible.
Avoid rewarding negative behavior changes with petting or food.
Create opportunities for positive associations with the dog. Additional walks, playtime, or games can help ease the transition.
It is important to realize that the dog is mourning the loss of a specific companion, so replacing the lost companion with another pet is often the solution to the problem.
These changes can occur with the loss of a human companion as well. For example, if one member of a family, with whom the dog was closest, leaves or dies, the dog may start exhibiting behavioral changes unless the surviving member of the family puts time in with the dog.
Whenever there are changes in eating or drinking in an elderly dog, they may signal health problems and should never be ignored. Veterinary attention should be sought to rule out a possible metabolic cause.
Changes in Routine
Geriatric canines can be very resistant to change. New routines, new locations, and increased social situations can be stressful to the elderly dog. In some situations, it may be better to isolate the dog to avoid short-term stress. These include situations with many visitors, visits from small children, or the presence of workmen in the home. Sometimes, the new situation cannot be avoided. Changes in location and territory, for instance, when a family moves to a new home, can result in behavior changes such as house soiling. Care must be taken to give the dog adequate time to eliminate in a new location and perhaps to provide a surface that is similar to what the dog was used to previously. If a dog is used to going out into a yard to eliminate and now has to eliminate while on a leash, time and patience are necessary to change old habits. Praise and rewards are much more effective in changing behavior than scolding or punishment. The following example illustrates this point.
A 9 year old German Shepherd was eliminating in the home. It has a previous history of urinary marking, from time to time, but now was soiling with stool and urine to an excessive extent. For the past 8 months, there had been a great deal of construction around the grounds of the house, and the dog was no longer being walked three times a day.
Concurrently, the hose soiling began. On examination, the dog showed lack of normal gait in the rear legs. Because of the construction work, the dog was now being asked to go out into a dog pen and eliminate on gravel. The change in surface was uncomfortable for the dog, and it therefore was eliminating in the house. A return to walks helped abolish the problem.
Changes in Social Structure
In multi-dog households, there usually exists a social structure in which one dog is the dominant animal. This often can be the dog who was there first, usually the older dog. As a dog ages and a young companion matures, there can be dominance challenges from the young dog toward the older dog. When size is a compounding factor, serious damage can occur. An older dog may have to relinquish its dominance role to the younger, stronger and bigger dog. If the fights are severe, the professional assistance of a behaviorist should be sought.
Cognitive Dysfunction
Recently, the veterinary literature has discussed a group of age-related changes in dogs and grouped them together under the heading of canine cognitive dysfunction syndrome. These behaviors include circling, tremors, stiffness or weakness, inappropriate vocalization, compulsive behaviors, and changes in sleep patterns, house training, interest in food, attention and activity, and awareness of surroundings.
The dog may exhibit separation-related behaviors where it never has before, uneasiness with visitors, and other problems discussed earlier in this article. Trials with drugs used to treat Parkinson's disease in humans have been shown to be useful in some dogs for selected behaviors. Hopefully, one or more of these drugs will be marketed to help control some of these age-related cognitive changes in dogs.
Summary
Many changes take place both physically and behaviorally as a dog ages. With good veterinary care, love and patience, our friends can live a long and comfortable life while bringing us joy.
________________________________________________________________________BUILDING CONFIDENCE IN A SHY DOG
Some dogs, due to certain or unknown circumstances, are not confident in themselves. This article will explore ways to help build confidence in a dog that is shy or scares easily, as well as dogs that may not be shy, but are on the bottom rung of the hierarchy ladder: the omega dog. Both of these types of dogs will share some characteristics, however usually their reasons for being less confident differ. Even so, many of the same techniques may apply to both types of dogs so I have included them both in the same article. First we will discuss shy and scared dogs.
A shy dog, or one that scares easily many times has been physically, verbally, and/or emotionally abused in their past. Other dogs may have not had any or enough human contact when they were puppies. And dogs that are brought up lovingly in a household but do not have the opportunity to leave the house and meet new dogs and people do not develop the confidence in themselves to handle new situations. Another problem these types of dogs often exhibit is separation anxiety, especially after becoming emotionally attached to a human in the household.
In order to help these types of dogs help themselves, one must make it a priority to build the dog's confidence.
· Enroll the dog in a basic obedience class. Unless the dog is so neurotic that taking it outside the home and into an obedience class is impossible, this is your first step. An alternative would be to purchase the following book: "So Your Dog's Not Lassie," it is written for people with "hard to train" or independent/stubborn-type dogs. If you feel that your shy dog is quite independent, this book may really help you help your dog.
· Whether you take your dog to an obedience class, or use one or both of the books at home, take your dog out of the house for an outing at least 3 times a week, ideally once each day. Take him to the gas station, take him to the convenience store, etc. If you live in a hot climate, be sure to take your dog out of the car or leave the air conditioning on for him. Getting out of the house and experiencing new people, places and things will help your dog gain confidence in himself.
· If the dog is scared of the collar, try a harness. If he is scared of a leash, introduce the leash as a new toy. Drag it on the ground and let him chase and pounce on it. Tie a favorite chew-toy to the end of it, or even real meat. When he begins to enjoy the leash, attach it to his collar or harness and let him drag it around (supervised) for a few minutes at a time. Always associate the leash with fun.
· Try to protect the dog's personal space. Do not let strangers overwhelm him, etc. You may not be aware of a passersby actually petting the dog. It is amazing what really goes on. Do not allow people (even family members) to pet the dog on the top of the head or behind his ears. Instead, pat and scratch the dog on his chest and neck. This is much less threatening to a dog.
· Teach the dog how to play with you. Entice the dog for a game of chase, with the dog chasing you. If he won't chase you while you're running, try crawling, yes really. Crawl on the floor on all fours away from him, then lie down and roll. Cover your face and make high-pitched whimpering noises. This should entice the dog to come over to you. This is success, praise the dog and then walk away and try it again later.
· If the dog is scared of people, instruct people to sit down with their backs facing the dog. Then, hold out a their hand (behind them) for the dog with a food treat in it. Gradually, the person can turn so that they are sideways, and then facing the dog. Avoid eye-contact until the dog is no longer scared of this particular person.
· If your dog is scared of things outside, practice a "Go Fast" command to distract him. Sprint for the first block on your walks. Run full out with the dog and give this a name like "Go Fast!" or "Run!" or something. Pretend this sprint is a great, fun thing to do. When you're done sprinting, jump up and down and praise him for his great "go fast." This works well if the dog will inevitably freak out at some point - if not down the block, then some other time. As you notice his eyes becoming beady and shifty, and his ears going back and down, and are expecting him to freak out at any moment - say "Go Fast!" And begin to run with him at full speed which is what he was wanting to do anyway. But, now he will be doing it under your direction, your command. When the sprint is over (when you reach the house, car, or a safer place), jump up and down and make a big deal out of how good he is. You will see the anxiety in his eyes, but pretend you don't. Pretend that everything is fun... and eventually he will start believing it is so. He will also realize that he can trust you at the other end of the lead.
· Do not stroke a scared dog and say "It's OK." This is perceived as praise by the dog and will make it more likely that the dog will repeat his fear again next time. Instead, give robust pats on the sides and act happy, pretend there is nothing to be scared about, and if at all possible, remove him from the frightful situation.
· Yawning is a calming signal for dogs. When your dog is nervous or unsure of a situation or person, you (and that person) should sit down by your dog, turn your head and focus slightly away from the dog, and yawn continually. I am not talking about 30 seconds of yawning, rather 3-30 minutes of consistent, passive yawning. Try it, over time it should make your dog more comfortable.
· It is important to avoid eye-contact, especially if the dog is used to running away or submissive peeing. When you are able to be close to the dog, kneel or sit down so you are on his level and turn your head away from the dog and lick your lips. Continue doing this until the dog either ceases being nervous, or brings their face closer to yours in a gesture of friendship. If/when this occurs, praise the dog's efforts with kind words and a gentle chest rub, however still avoid eye-contact. Whenever you are close to a scared or submissive dog, it is important to avoid eye-contact so the dog will not feel threatened in any way.
· Do not over-stimulate or push the dog too far to fast. Let the dog regulate how close he can get to other people, places and things. If you push a scared dog too far, you will create a neurosis that will be more difficult to treat.
· If the dog is scared of human contact, even from you, pet the dog unexpectedly as you walk by. Do it quickly and friendly, and then keep walking. The dog will probably be scared and surprised, for if he knew you were going to pet him, he would've run away and not allowed it. By sneaking in friendly petting with no consequences (you simply walk away) the dog will learn that being touched is not a bad thing.
· Being scared is very stressful. Exercise is one of the most beneficial ways to relieve stress, so make sure your dog gets plenty of it. If your dog likes other dogs (if you don't know, find out) I strongly recommend that you find a dog for him to play with on a weekly basis (more often, even better). Canine companionship is very important to dogs, and especially a dog that does not trust many humans, another canine can relieve more stress than anything else. Be sure to allow the dogs to romp around and play unrestricted (except for a fence) until they tire out. This may be one of the best therapies that you can give a shy dog.
An omega dog may or may not be shy and scared. If so, you can implement the suggestions above. However some omega dogs are not shy at all, they simply have a low confidence level due to their omega status in the dog pack. If you haven't already, please read the Two or More Dogs article to familiarize yourself with the omega position.
The first and most important thing you can do for your dog pack is to reassure your dogs so that they understand where they belong on the pack hierarchy ladder. The omega dog belongs on the bottom. Because of this, she gets petted last, fed last, and has last choice for toys, chewies, etc. In the wild the omega dog can lead a stressful life, but in a household where humans are the true alphas, we can help the omega dog build her confidence so she can lead a life without anxiety. All of the suggestions above can also be used to help build the confidence of an omega dog.
· Enrolling her in an obedience class is one of the most important things you can do for. Take her to class by herself, not with any of the other dogs. This allows her to spend quality one-on-one time with you. It also allows her to socialize with other people and dogs on her own. You may find that your omega dog may display dominant characteristics when she encounters certain dogs in class. This is very good for her self-knowledge and independence.
· Although the omega dog may not get first choice of toys, sleeping areas, etc., when in a human household it is your responsibility to make sure these things, once chosen, are not stolen by the other dogs. The only time stealing, bullying, and staring matches should be allowed is for a brief period of a day or two if you need help deciding which dog is alpha and which one is omega. Once decided, the omega dog should receive the respect she deserves as well, meaning that once she finds a place to sleep, another dog should not be allowed to kick her off her spot. In the wild, this would not occur, however since you are the true alpha of the household, you decide when and how much leeway is given to the omega dog.
· Some omega dogs do not accept treats well or at all when in the presence of the other dogs. This is because, in the wild (and when you are not home) the other dogs may pounce the omega dog to steal her belongings, especially food. If this is the case with your omega dog, you can, periodically, give a food treat to the omega dog first, and then give the treat to the other dogs. This needs to be done only periodically so not to disrupt pack order. If the dogs are secure in their placement, and secure in knowing that you are the master, the true alpha, they will accept your decision and no problems will arise.
· The omega dog may feel more confident to eat her food, or chew her chewy if the human alpha is in close proximity to her. Sitting next to your omega dog so she builds confidence to eat or chew is something to consider if you are having difficulty getting her to eat. As you sit next to her, avoid looking directly at her.
· Do not allow other dogs to stare at the omega dog while she is eating her food or chewy. Tell the other dog to go lie down, or block their view with your body or a pillow, etc. Otherwise, a top-dog's stare may force the omega dog to stop eating.
· When spending quality time with the omega dog, one-on-one, without the other dog(s) around, play fetch, chase (dog chasing you) and hide and seek. You should spend one-on-one time with each of your dogs daily for 5-20 minutes per day. This is ideal, but as many times per week you can do this, the better.
· Play tug-of-war with your omega dog and let her win at least half of the time.
· Build your omega dog's prey drive by enticing her to chase after moving objects such as a long rope with a toy tied on the end of it. Allow her to pounce the toy and even run away with it, if she so desires. Ideally, she will bring it back to you, but don't worry if she doesn't at this point. You are not teaching fetch, you are reinforcing her prey instinct to build her confidence.
· Be sure to take the omega dog on outings by herself periodically. Fun outings like swimming, walking, hiking, doggie playgrounds, etc.
Dogs that need to build their confidence need our help. Taking the time to bring them out of their shell is certainly worth the effort!
This article is reprinted here with the kind permission of the
Great Lakes Irish Wolfhound Association and Dr. Chris Krowzack. Thank you!
It Simply Works
By C.A. Krowzack, DVM
In February of 1998, the Great Lakes Irish Wolfhound Association (GLIWA) held their annual meeting. The meeting is an occasion for fellowship of the members, the club attends to business and also hosts a speaker on a special topic. In the past it has been obedience, therapy dog training, and this year the topic was acupuncture.
Dr. Debbie Mitchell gave an overview of what acupuncture is, its history and its medical uses.
Then, using a member’s dog, showed the participants several acupuncture/acupressure points that they could utilize. One point was to stimulate gastrointestinal motility to combat bloat.
This week at my clinic, a GLIWA member brought her wolfhound in for an examination. During the night Quinn had begun experiencing discomfort. He sleeps in the bedroom with his owners. The husband had worked a long day and was asleep, but the wife was awakened by the restless behavior of Quinn. When she petted him she found his abdomen severely enlarged and hard to the touch. She knew it was bloat, but didn’t know what to do. She is a small woman, and Quinn a large dog. She remembered the acupressure point Dr. Mitchell had shown and began massaging it. Within a few minutes, Quinn began passing "a lot of gas" and his abdomen became smaller and softer. The husband and wife brought Quinn in the next morning to make sure he was all right, and because he had diarrhea.
On examination, Quinn was completely normal. He was not experiencing discomfort upon palpation, and no abnormalities beside the diarrhea could be found. Because she remembered the acupressure point, the wife had saved Quinn’s life. The acupressure point is on the hind leg. If you start at the hock, on the front of the leg (anterior) you can feel the tibia. Move your hand up the leg along the tibia’s sharp crest; what in humans would be called the shin. As your hand approaches the stifle, or the "knee" the crest becomes very pronounced and then curls around to the outside (laterally). Just inside this curve is a depression. The acupressure point is in this depression. An acupuncturist might insert a needle into this spot, or inject a liquid, but, as Quinn’s owners will attest, massaging also stimulates the point. The gastrointestinal tract starts to contract and move (peristalsis) and expels the built up gas before torsion can occur. If torsion has occurred, massaging the spot will not help.
I don’t recommend this procedure instead of veterinary treatment, but begun early, or on the way for veterinary treatment, can save your hound’s life!
(In addition, Dr Krowzack is now studying acupuncture at Colorado State University( or Colorado University).
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