THE GERMAN SHEPHERD SENTINEL

AUGUST  2004 – NEWSLETTER OF THE

GSDC OF GREATER RALEIGH

Pat Embrey, Newsletter Editor

1390 Sanders Road, Benson, NC 27504

PH: 919-934-6232, E-Mail: VonRillca@aol.com

Website of the GSDC of GR:  www.gsdcofgrraleigh.org

 

 

 

TABLE OF CONTENTS 

1.        Board Policy on Dogs at Club Sponsored Events

2.        August 2004 Meeting Information

3.        Minutes of the July and June Meetings

4.        Australian Mega Store

5.        Tips on Insect Repellents and Killer

6.        Deodorizing Ground, Grass and Runs

7.        I’M Baad Because

8.        Airline Cargo Door Openings

9.        Grooming Tips

10.     Canine Good Citizen

11.     Pictures from our July Meeting.

 

 

 

 

BOARD POLICY ON DOGS AT CLUB SPONSORED EVENTS

The GSDC of Greater Raleigh welcomes your German Shepherd at our events, including meetings.  However, the following rules must be followed: 

1.         Anyone with an aggressive dog (one that

growls, snaps, or is in any way aggressive towards other dogs or people) must be muzzled. 

2.        Dogs will be free of loose hair and external

parasites (fleas or ticks). Please brush your dog prior to bringing it to the meeting as we must clean up the room after  we are finished.

3.        For the safety of all members, guests and their dogs, it is strongly recommended that all dogs be kept up to date on their vaccinations.  ALL dogs that are old enough, MUST have a current rabies shot.

 

AUGUST 2004 MEETING INFORMATION

 

Our August meeting will be held on the 4th at the Exchange Park as usual with socialization beginning at 7:00 PM and our program starting at 7:30 PM.  Dr. Liz Watson, DMV will be giving the program on Acupuncture and the new Vaccination Protocols.  This should be a fascinating program and we hope we have a great attendance (along with the dogs).

 

Refreshments are being furnished by Ralph and Joan Mason. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MINUTES OF THE JULY 2004 MEETING

GSDC of Greater Raleigh

Meeting Minutes

July 6, 2004

 

Program:  Jane Wall did a short program on games to play with your dog such as hide-and-seek and musical chairs.  These and other games (you can find many ideas on the internet) promote bonding and are just plain fun, as the demonstrations showed.

 

Business Meeting:  Vice-president of the club Deeda  Duncan called the meeting to order and announced that President Sherwood Brantley has  notified the club that he is stepping down immediately as club president and will also no longer be keeping up the club website, which is now down.  Deeda will assume the duties of president and Chris Tew has graciously accepted the vice-president position.

      Bill Pfeiffer of the national GSD club has arranged for the club to have space for its’ web site through the parent club site for a small annual fee, about $40.  The new web site is:

www.gsdcofgrraleigh.org.  Michael Zeeveld, a new applicant for club membership, has agreed to set up and run the web site for the club.  Michael presented a basic outline and showed ideas from some other clubs.  His goal is to put together a site that is easy to navigate, informative and attractive.  The newsletter will be available at the site to club members but details are not complete yet.  Bill says the national club sells ads on their site and that is certainly available to our club also.  Pat Embrey will be the resource person who will clear everything before it goes on the web site.

     Deeda wants to come up with a new club brochure.  Bill said that we can buy the national club’s newsletter and use the last page for our club information.  Lisa Zeeveld volunteered to investigate details of setting this up.

     There are 4 more months before the end of the year and since December’s meeting is a dinner, we will need 3 more programs to be planned.  Chris Tew said she would handle this and asks for any ideas members might have.

     Pat Embrey has been temporarily handling show details since Sherwood, who had agreed to serve as show secretary, has stepped down.  The judges have been set up and Pat has confirmed the Raleigh Police Club site, but she is also looking at other possible sites that may offer people participating in the show more amenities.  Also since we no longer have a show secretary, Pat has contacted Bob Peter’s Dog Shows about doing our show by serving as superintendent.  The cost would be about $700 including ribbons and an additional $.25 per mailing for the first day, and $5.00 per entry for Sunday.

     New Business:  Bill Pfeiffer talked about the Tailwaggers, a group that is in the process of reorganizing under a new mission and a new, as yet announced, name.  The Raleigh Kennel Club is planning to rejoin now that they have a new president, Bob Peters and plans to become a club to lobby the NC legislature and serve as a central point for all licensed dog clubs in the Raleigh area.  Also he reminded us that the nationals will be in North Carolina in 2005 and the sheepherding trials will be held in Durham in case anyone is interested in this event.

     First reading was held for Michael and Lisa Zeeveld of Fuquay.

Treasurer’s Report:  Sarah Bridges presented the Treasurer’s Report for June 2004 as well as an updated membership list.



MINUTES OF THE JUNE 2, 2004 MEETING

Program:  Dr. Crista Gallagher, DVM and Rehab Specialist Sandy Usry, BSPT,CCRP from the Arbor Creek Animal Wellness & Rehabilitation Clinic P.A. talked about their facility and what they offer for canine rehab.  The clinic is located in Holly Springs and offers wellness and rehab (the canine equivalent to human physical therapy).  They also offer full dog boarding and grooming, but specialize in in-patient and out-patient care including referrals from NCSU Vet School for after surgery care and geriatric care, degenerative disease, orthopedic care and even athletic conditioning.

 

Business Meeting:  Deeda called the meeting to order.  Our March show had majors on both days and planning has already begun for next year.  There is an AKC Rally Seminar at WCU on July 17th, with a match the following day.  On June 18 & 19 there will be an all-day all-breed dog training and handling workshop in Monroe at a cost of $90 per dog and handler.  The German Shepherd Dog Club of America wants information on our show for next year to put in their calendar.

 

Treasure’s Report:  Sara absent.  Anyone with outstanding bills from the show should get them to her asap.

 

AUSTRALIAN MEGA STORE

 

There is a site on the internet in Australia from whom I have ordered flea and tick killers, sprays, etc. etc.  So far, they have been totally reliable and a great deal less expensive than any of the suppliers here  in the States.  You order with a credit card and they automatically convert the sale to American money.  Here is the site for anyone who is interested: 

 

http://www.pets-megastore.com.au/

 

 

INSECT REPELLENTS AND KILLERS

 

I have an extensive library of tips and ideas for just about everything, plus access to the internet,( as do all of us) so I am compiling a list of tips for the Sentinel readers on ways to get rid of, avoid, or just help our dogs with flying, crawling, and biting insects. Hope this is helpful to all of you.  Pat.

REMEMBER, USE THESE REMEDIES AT YOUR OWN RISK.  I HAVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH ANY OF THEM, BUT I AM NOT AN AUTHORITY.

 

ALTERNATIVE TO FRONTLINE

 

 I have a bitch that has developed a sensitivity to Frontline Plus and would  like an alternative, if anyone knows of one. She had done well on Advantage  and Frontline but when the new formulation came out, she immediately began   itching. You can't imagine the huge raw hot spots she developed and the   discomfort she was in. I took her off the Frontline Plus for two months,

tried it again and she went back to the itching

 

I had that happen twice, and the worst part was getting  the vet to believe me!  He did tests for every "itching" thing he could think  of before conceding it was the Frontline.  The manufacturer's rep was cool  though, and when the vet filed the required "incident" report, without even  being asked they (Frontline) credited my account for not only the Frontline, BUT the vet charges for subsequent visits, RXs and tests.  Seems it WASN'T an isolated incident.  (What a nice surprise!  I went in for rabies shots and found out I had hundreds of dollars of credit!) BUT HERE'S THE IMPORTANT THING (from Frontline):

 

If you are using Frontline and notice severe itching to the areas of  application, IMMEDIATELY wash the areas w/ DAWN LIQUID dish detergent  (exactly what they use on wildlife after oil spills). If you get it off in  the first 12-24 hours, you'll avoid a lot of the sensitivity, itching and

oozey, gooey, hotspot type sores.  After that it is too late, and the poor dog will just have to suffer through it and the treatments to go with.

 

For now I use Biospot during the spring/summer/early  fall, (pain in the a** for as many baths as they get) and spray w/ Citronella  and use a pretty good gel on the dogs' ears and bellies called "Gel Forte"  when we're working outside and the gnats are bad.

 

                                                    **************************************

Dawn dish soap - this also does a great job on fleas.  Before the advent of the drops on the shoulder products when a dog came in for grooming INFESTED  with fleas.  I would use dawn for the shampoo.  (not diluted) and then a  conditioner.  I did not want to put all the insecticides on my drains into our  septic tank and ground

 

FLIES ON EARS

The recent post regarding flies on ears reminded me of a very cool tip I read  and it really works. I tried literally every product to keep flies off ears,  bronco, repel-x, swat, flies off, and dozens of other things that others told  me worked for them.  I have found the absolute best thing to keep flies off ears is good old BioSpot, or Kiltix, both are Permethrin.  What you do is put on  gloves and apply maybe 2 drops to the outer tip of the ear and one on the  inner tip and rub it in.  It lasts close to 2 weeks even through the rains and  hot humid weather we've been getting.  One tube of Biospot for large dogs is almost enough to do 10 dogs, but I waste a lot and it doesn't go as far for me  LOL.  The flies were horrendous from the dry spells and then when the rain came so did the flies. After going through almost a whole jar of Swat in a week I did a little research and found this tip on the web  someplace. It was an ear saver for sure, I wish I had known about it years ago :-)

 

INSECT  DETERRENTS AND KILLERS

Gnats - Last year we had attack of some bug.. Fruit flys I believe..but could be Gnats.  In the kitchen.  Is this were your bugs are?  Well.. i called the  "Friendly Trapper" guy here, and he said they were coming up out of my Kitchen drain.  To put Comet all around the drains in the sink at night.  Do not rinse away until AM.   WOW.  2 days in a row and NO MORE BUGS... whew.  Something as simple as that took care of them totally.

 

Fleas and Ticks - Buy HI-LO comes in a gallon  and when you buy one you get one free.  It is a dip for cattle, sheep and dogs.  Really works.  Kept fleas from cats away from  my place in the city. Out here it keeps everything under control.  I carry a spray bottle of it with me to shows and before the kids get in the car we spray them so nothing comes home. New England serum company sells it for  sometimes only one gallon sometimes as two for one.  Have to check  catalog.

 

 

Fleas and Ticks - Diatomaceous earth.  Put it into a duster, and dust everything. Don't spray it when the dogs are there to breath it...once it settles it is safe for dogs to run on.   It is miraculous.

 

Ticks and Organic Sulphur I recently discovered that MSM (organic sulphur) has been used for generations to repel ticks and chiggers on humans and dogs alike.

 

I started using MSM when one of my dogs injured himself when jumping up on the grooming table.  I also have a bitch that was starting to show signs of arthritis and with the MSM she experienced significant improvement.

 

Our property borders the Apalachicola National Forest so ticks are abundant. Interestingly enough I haven't found a tick on one of the dogs in over three years, but I have found them on the cats who don't get the MSM supplement.

 

*************************************

We had a dog come in for boarding, . He had over  200 ticks on him..  Most were seed ticks which are baby ticks. We put a Tick  Arrest collar on him and put him in a crate. By morning all those ticks were  dead in the bottom of the crate. I SWEAR by Tick Arrest. Won't harm puppies (over the age of 8 weeks)  or pregnant bitches. (I would only put them on pregnant bitches in an extreme emergency).

 

***************************************

 

Spray with Sevin.  Dust with Sevin. The terrible thing about ticks is that they can lie dormant for over 20

years...until they find a host.  If there are deer or rabbits, even mice, they can serve as host...not to mention birds.  On the other hand, birds eat ticks.     Another wonderful thing to dust with is diatoms...(diatomaceous earth)... any little critter that comes in contact with it scratches its body cover and it will die.  It doesn't bother the dogs...just the bugs.     The Sevin is my first line of attack against all bugs...the diatoms are just added protection. (Sevin is now considered to be a dangerous chemical, however, I never had any problems with it and used it for years.  Pat).

******************************************

 

Ants - Used coffee grounds,  It does not kill them, but they do move away.  In the spring I have to do this around the dog runs, I have railroad ties around  them and could not keep the ants out of them until I tried this.

 

 

Flies - GUESS THEY DO NOT LIKE THE SMELL OF BLEACH.  BUT IT DOES WORK.

(This is kind of a repeat from last month, but it can’t hurt to rewrite it)

 

Can anyone tell me "why does , this work??"

If it works, I'm all for it, and will try it.. but why does it??

 SunRehGSD@aol.com wrote: I will reply to all who have written, however, I have modified the method

just a tad.  This is what I do: 2 parts bleach to 5-6 parts water, and in a large bowl, preferably glass or plastic as the metal ones will rust.  Now, more dogs, use more bowls, I have 4 dogs, one bowl.  Do this once a month or more often, mix and place in a place out of reach of animals, like on top of an old water heater, or work bench in the area where you keep doggie poop, or close to.  Remember, you must also pick up your poop everyday, this will also help.  Now, I give you about 1 month and you will see the difference.  And, yes, it takes care of bees too! At this time last year my doggies had fly bites on their ears and I had problems with "white-faced" wasps who get a little pissed off when you remove their poop.  No more wasps and no more flies.  My neighbors can't believe the difference.  And, trust me, my fly problem was terrible here, always in the house too YUK!  I don't know if this will help this late in the season, but what have you got to lose?  Bleach is so cheap, it is well worth it!!!!!!!!!!  I love my backyard now :-)  And another thank you for the scoot problem, dry potato flakes!  I will pass that along.

 

FLIES

 

For ears and face, Roll-On fly repellent by Farnam.  Works great and not as  heavy as the pink stuff on puppy ears and much easier to get off before a show.  For general fly repellent for me and the dogs, Flys-Off for dogs, by Farnam.  Have found it works great for me too.  And, even better than Off for  mosquitoes.

 

Byte Free...just once a week...also loosens and softens hot spot crud.

 

 

MOSQUITO REPELLENTS

 

Pass this on to anyone who likes sitting out in the evening or when they're having a cook out.  So you don't like those pesky mosquitoes, especially now that they have the potential to carry the West Nile  Virus?  Here's a tip that was given at a recent gardening forum.

 

Put some water in a white dinner plate and add a couple drops of Lemon Fresh Joy dish detergent.  Set the dish on your porch, patio, or other outdoor area.  Not sure what attracts them, the lemon smell, the white plate color, or what, but mosquitoes flock to it, and drop dead shortly after drinking the Lemon Fresh

Joy/water mixture, and usually within about 10 feet of the plate. 

 

Check this out---it works just super! May seem trivial, but it may help control mosquitoes around your home, especially in the South and elsewhere where the West Nile virus is reaching epidemic proportions in mosquitoes, birds, and humans.

 

 

         OK,mosquitoes...prepare to be repelled!!!!! Use Bounce Fabric Softener Sheets...Best  thing ever used in Louisiana - just wipe on & go...Great for Babies

        

         Bob, a fisherman, takes one vitamin B-1 tablet a day April through October. He  said it works. He was right. Hasn't had a mosquito bite in 33 years. Try it. Every one  he has talked into trying it works on them. Vitamin B-1 (Thiamine Hydrochloride  100 mg.)

 

         If you eat bananas, the mosquitoes like you, - something about the banana oil as    your body processes it. Stop eating bananas for the summer and the mosquitoes will  be much less interested.

 

         This is going to floor you, but one of the best insect repellents someone found (who  is in the woods every day), is Vick's Vaporub.

 

 

TICK REPELLENTS

 

Here is a natural remedy: 

 

15 oz spray bottle:

3/4 full water

1/4 full apple cider vinegar

15 drops peppermint oil

15 drops eucalyptus oil

 

This is a great all purpose tick repellant.. Doesn't make the coat sticky and makes your dog smell nice too.

 

You can also hang a bandana round the dogs neck with the essential oils on it for more protection.

 

The spray is also safe and useful for humans

OR

 

Take the rinds of 1 each: lemon, lime, orange, and grapefruit and  boil with 2 tablespoons rosemary (if using fresh, increase amount).  Boil it for an hour, makes the house smell nice. Skim out the rosemary and the rinds, and pour the liquid into a spray bottle. You will have enough to put into another bottle to store in the freezer. Keep  spray bottle in refrigerator, spray all over (watch the eyes!) before going out - works on people too

 

 

 

DEODORIZING PENS, GRASS, ETC

 

Sweet PDZ (this is obtainable from most horse suppliers, here in the area I find it at Southern States or Family Farm Supply).   , dog door flaps, and other mundane things Sweet PDZ, for all those that asked privately is a product that is put on horse stall boards to adsorb moisture and odors. It looks like white sand (sort of) and very inexpensive the last time I bought someYou can get it at any feed store. (Not really, some of them recommend Lime, but I was not happy with that (I don’t remember why))Does it work on gravel? I don't know. Cement Floors? Never tried it. Dirt, wood, DG, yep. S

 

 

I’M BAAAD…… BECAUSE

BY

SYD MAILBURG

REPRINTED WITH KIND PERMISSION

 

 

I used to think I was a pretty good "dog keeper"...that is, until I have
been on this list... almost since the beginning. I realized I am not a good dog
keeper because: <sigh>:

I do not scrub water buckets out twice a day. (twice a week might be more
like it)
I do not feed twice a day
I do not shop for fresh human grade meat (except for the humans)
I do not cook for my dogs on a regular basis (I hardly cook for my husband)
I do not chop, grind, grate, or feed fresh fruits and veggies (except for
the humans)
Sometimes, (omigod) I miss a day poopie scooping
I do not leave the pups on their moms for 9 weeks (empathy working here)
I do not sleep with new pups longer than 3 days
I do not change the dogs' water 3-6 times a day (said on this very list)
Sometimes I don't change it for two days!!!!
I don't allow dogs to sleep on the bed (is couch ok?)
I don't vacuum up the hair every day (and it shows)
I just use shavings, no stall mats, no exotic stuff for bedding
I debark some dogs (cruel to them maybe, but nice to me)
I have been known to smack one on the nose now and then.
I use "training" collars, (read choke chains, heh heh heh)
I will not always go to extremes to save a dog
I do not feed puppies 5 times a day
I do not feed them separately
I do not housebreak them before being sold (excuse me, "placed")
I do not do co-ownerships
I do not worship the biggies in the sport
I do not use "name" handlers ( Uh, I might get desperate one day, better
leave myself an out)
I do not cut nails once a week
I do not lie about my dogs. Syd

_______________________________________________________________________________

 

AIRLINE CARGO DOOR OPENINGS

FROM

LEW BUNCH, GSDCA REGIONAL CLUB COMMITTEE

AND

NANCY HARPER (WHO MADE OUT THE LIST). 


With all the recent talk about flying dogs and what type of aircraft will hold our 500 crates, Nancy Harper created this wonderful factual list. Might be a great idea to print it in your newsletter.

Lew Bunch, Chairman
GSDCA Regional Club committee

Nancy's chart:

Here is some information for you on cargo door openings not all aircraft are
listed; these are the major ones used. Others will be listed later.

Aircraft Height Width
320 44" 62"
727 42" 45"
735 34" 45"
737 (73S) 34" 45"
757 44" 55"
767 66" 47"
DC9S 29" 30"
DC9(MD80) 31" 35" & 52"
DC9 31 30" 52
DC9 50 29" 35"
DC9 80 73.6cm 132 cm
DC-10 66"/48" 70"/42"
MD11 64" 74"

You may want to call airline and ask size yourself.
Support your regional club!
Nancy Harper

 

GROOMING TIPS

 

Most of the following tips are for the dog going into the show ring, however most of these tips can be used in the day-to-day life of our dogs. 

 

Behavior

    Socialize, socialize, socialize!  Get your dogs out of the kennel and take them with you wherever you go, whether its to the kids softball game, the dry cleaners, or Jack In The Box.(OR OUR CLUB MEETINGS)   As a side note, I’ve found that several of the fast food drive through restaurants in this area give dog cookies when there’s a dog in the car!

 

Care for the Coat

 A healthy coat comes from the inside out.  As Sharlonna told me the first time I met her when I asked her what made the dogs coat so shiny, Its not what you put on your dog, it’s what you put in them!  A nutritious diet (whatever is the best for your dogs - God knows none of us can agree on the best diet!!  is the most important factor (other than genetics) to determine a healthy coat.  Having said that, the following products/tips were given:

  

 Bathing: The dog should always be bathed immediately prior to a show and blown dry.  It not only makes the dog look its best, but helps get their attitude up.    Start grooming on the judges side.  In case you get tired, the first side will look the best.     Regular brushing is a must.     Stuff that’s sprayed on the dog:  most people are just spraying water for last minute touch-ups.  Dogs have bad hair days just like we do!  In that case, hair spray, conditioners, or straighteners come in handy.

Take 1 tablespoon of  people  hair conditioner and dilute it in a spray bottle with warm water.  Spray all over the dog, comb through, towel dry, then blow dry the dog.

Blow drying tips:  Blow against the lay of the hair all over except the back, neck and croup, which should lie flat.     Get a de-matter made by Cherry Brook - the white one with curved teeth. Helps to smooth wavy hair.  Brush away from the dog in the croup area.  Also can use a Greyhound comb to combat matting.

    This isn’t exactly about coats - but - use Vitamin E cream on the nose and foot pads after bathing to erase dry skin and give a nice, dark look.     Another thing that’s not about coats.  Advantage continues to work even if you bathe the dog, just be sure to wait a few days before bathing.

 Invest in your own grooming kit:  a powerful dryer, extension cord, a garden sprayer (like for insecticides) full of water (in case there’s not water for bathing at the show site), Shine, brushes, rakes, combs, extra collars and leashes, face cloth, towels, fixative (for cow-licks), Cindra Reconstructor, mousse, hair spray, first aid kit, sun screen, Immodium A-D, pain killers for the handlers (non prescription, of course), Tums for the Butterflies in your stomach, and if you’re really lucky, your own generator!

 Look for the best looking dogs, watch the groomers technique and ask questions.

 Recommended products:  Bio-Vite shampoo by Crown Royal for body and shine, Crown Royal Bodifier diluted 1:5 (put on after drying and then dry again), a teaspoon of corn oil daily in their food, liver 3 times weekly, Inflight, Nupro, #1 All Systems Care products, Nova Pearls Moisturizing Shampoo by Tomlyn, Hoka Mix or Peak Performance oral supplements, and Cindra reconstructor.   JB Wholesale was recommended as a good source of information with knowledgeable show breeder employees who know what they’re talking about!

 

Ears

Clean regularly (weekly) and last cleaning should not be done on the day of the show.  Reason?  The dog may go into the ring shaking its head trying to get the last of the gook out!      Dont use straight rubbing alcohol as it may be too drying to the skin.     Most people fill the ear canal with the cleaning solution, swish it around and let the dog shake its head to get rid of the excess solution. Follow that by wiping the ear out with a cotton ball.  Repeat until the cotton ball comes out clean.  Side note:  I advise people   to warm the solution before putting it into the ear.  Test the temperature by placing the bottle against the back of your wrist (just like a baby bottle). Cold solutions in the ear are painful!!     Never use Q-Tips!  One slip can puncture the ear drum.  Actually John DeHope pointed out that this isnt quite true because the dogs ear canal  isnt straight, like a humans ear, but rather sort of buJb shaped so you shouldnt even be near the ear drum.  We bow to John, because he does know everything!!  But be careful with Q-tips just the same!

    Suggestions for cleaning solutions:  Betadine/vinegar/alcohol (equal parts I imagine, the author didnt elaborate), half and half vinegar and rubbing alcohol, Novasan Otic.

 

Nails

 Trimming prior to a show is a must!  Its best to do the last trimming a couple of days prior to a show rather than immediately before the show.  The reason for this is in case the blood vessel in the nail is cut, these few days will allow the nail to heal and the dog wont be limping in the ring.

 Trim the nails regularly. Regularly varies from dog to dog but usually once every week or two, weekly if grinding, every 2 weeks if clipping.  When the nails click on the kitchen floor, is a good indication that you may have waited too long!     Regular trimming helps keep the feet tight and prevent splaying (straightening out of the toes).

 After trimming with clippers (or instead of clippers) use a Dremmel or grinder to smooth the edges.  If you use a grinder, put a drop of oil on the nail afterwards to get rid of the dusty  look and prevent splitting.

 Cookies after trimming and snuggles during trimming make it a little easier.

 

Teeth

    Brush their teeth with a doggy tooth paste.

    Taxi Groom solution made by Cherry Brook came highly recommended!

    Dentatreat by Wysong  powder sprinkled on their food helps cut down tartar build-up, and abrades existing tartar.

 

 

Conditioning

    The purpose of conditioning is to increase endurance and increase muscle tone.  A dog in good condition will have firm muscle tone without softness, rolling or spinginess.

    Most responders roadwork their dogs on a bike.  Length varies; start slowly, usually about 1/2 mile, gradually increasing up to 2-3 miles as the dog tolerates.  Duration varied depending on the dogs speed, usually 10-20 minutes.  Frequency varied from daily to 2 or 3 times per week.  Go at the speed required to keep the dog gaiting.  Stop when the dog appears tired or their tongue starts hanging out of their mouths!

    Talk to the dogs during this one-on-one time them telling them how wonderful they are!

    ALWAYS wait a couple of hours after exercising the dog to feed them or at least crate them for 30 minutes before feeding.

    Road work in the morning or evening when its cool, you can also hose them off to cool them down when you get home.

    If swimming the dog, the duration is the same as road working the dog. Following swimming, if done in a pool, be sure to rinse all the chlorine out of the coat.  Chlorine left to dry in the coat can cause hair breakage.

    Keep the dog on a leash while in the pool as you walk along the perimeter of the deck.  If you are in the pool with the dog, wearing a wetsuit protects you from getting scratched accidentally and keeps you warm!

    When swimming the dog in bright sunlight, put a doggy baseball cap on them to protect their eyes.

    One responder felt swimming may build too much muscle in the front and restrict front reach, but felt it was very good for weak pasterns.  

 

  If you’re very talented you can road work the dogs from a vehicle. Go 5-7 miles/hour for no more than 2 miles.

    Stop road working on the Thursday prior to any show.

 

Training

    Start by teaching the dog to stand , then stack, followed by Stay.

Gradually increasing the duration of the stay.  Eventually teach them turn for the out and back.

    Get the dog to a handling class, if available.

    Smart dogs get bored quickly, vary the routine and don’t overtrain.

 

Why are dogs at the specialties thinner than those at all breeds?

    The specialty dog is most likely in better condition.  They have to be because for the most part the specialty rings are much bigger than the all breed rings......Lets take them around one more time.....!  Usually you want to see or feel the last rib.     Another thought was that all breed judges prefer plush coats and pretty, standing dogs.  Specialty judges focus on movement.

 

My dog behaves badly when he’s taken away from me.  What can I do to change that?

    Linda Bankhead gets the gold star for the first place response:  Mine does too.  That is how you know they love you.  I would never change that!

 

 

CANINE GOOD CITIZEN

 

The Canine Good Citizen (CGC) Program is a program by the American Kennel Club (AKC) which is designed to reward dogs who have good manners at home and in the community. A dog that has been through a basic obedience class or that has been trained at home should be able to pass the 10 item test. Dogs do not need to be AKC registered to test. Sometimes landlords are more willing to rent to prospective tenants with dogs if the dogs have passed a CGC test.

The 10 item CGC test include:

  1. Accepting a friendly stranger: This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The Evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness and must not break position or try to go to the Evaluator.
  2. Sitting politely for petting: This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. The dog should sit at the handler's side as the Evaluator approaches and begins to pet the dog on the head and body only. The dog may stand in place to accept petting. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.
  3. Appearance and grooming: This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit a stranger, such as a veterinarian, groomer, or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern, and sense of responsibility. The Evaluator inspects the dog, then combs or brushes the dog, and lightly examines the ears and each front foot.
  4. Out for a walk (walking on a loose leash): This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog can be on either side of the handler, whichever the handler prefers. There must be a left turn, a right turn, and an about turn, with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops.
  5. Walking through a crowd: This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the stranger, without appearing overexuberant, shy or resentful. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not be straining at the leash.
  6. Sit and down on command/Staying in place: This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down, and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to make the dog sit and then down. When instructed by the Evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of a 20-foot line. The dog must remain in place but may change position.
  7. Coming when called: This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell the dog to 'stay' or 'wait' or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog as the Evaluator provides mild distraction (e.g. petting).
  8. Reaction to another dog: This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 10 yards, stop, shake hands, and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 5 yards. The dogs should show no more than a casual interest in each other.
  9. Reactions to distractions: This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations such as the dropping of a large book or a jogger running in front of the dog. The dog may express a natural interest and curiosity and/or appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark.
  10. Supervised separation: This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain its training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness.

More information can be found at the AKC web site, www.akc.org

 

 

   

                             

 

 

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