THE GERMAN SHEPHERD SENTINEL

APRIL  2005 - NEWSLETTER OF THE

GSDC OF GREATER RALEIGH

Pat Embrey, Newsletter Editor

1390 Sanders Road, Benson, NC 27504

PH: 919-934-6232, E-Mail: VonRillca@aol.com

Website: www.gsdcofgrraleigh.org

 

TABLE OF CONTENTS 

1.      Board Policy on Dogs at Club Sponsored Events

2.      April Meeting Information

3.      Minutes of the March meeting

4.      Everything You Wanted to Know About the Show Dog

5.      Accupressure Point for Bloat

6.      Car Sickness Remedies

7.      Bark Collars

8.      Bi Colors vs Black and Tans

9.      Grooming Tips

10.  Recipe for Satin Balls

           

 

 

BOARD POLICY ON DOGS AT CLUB SPONSORED EVENTS

The GSDC of Greater Raleigh welcomes your German Shepherd at our events, including meetings.  However, the following rules must be followed: 

 Anyone with an aggressive dog (one that growls, snaps, or is in any way aggressive towards other dogs or people) must be muzzled. 

Dogs will be free of loose hair and external parasites (fleas or ticks). Please brush your dog prior to bringing it to the meeting as we must clean up the room after  we are finished.

For the safety of all members, guests and their dogs, it is strongly recommended that all dogs be kept up to date on     their vaccinations.  ALL dogs that are old enough, MUST have a current rabies shot.

REMEMBER OUR SHOWS ARE SATURDAY AND SUNDAY  APRIL 2 AND 3.  HOPEFULLY, ALL OF YOU WILL BE ABLE TO ATTEND.  If you can’t find the showgrounds call me on my cellphone at 919-631-0417

 

APRIL MEETING INFORMATION

The April meeting of the GSDC of GR will be held next Wednesday April 6 at 7:00 PM for Socialization,  with the program and meeting starting at 7:30 PM.  This  meeting will be a recap of our shows on April 2 and 3  and information on our plans for the 2006 shows,

Hopefully the weather will be nice enough for us to hold part of the meeting outside.  Everyone who has any bills from the shows, PLEASE bring them to this meeting. 

 

Refreshments will be furnished by Rosemary Alsberg

 

 

 

MINUTES OF THE MARCH MEETING

 

Program:  Bob Peters presented a program on conformation stewarding for the upcoming show because of the need for volunteers to help with the event.  The main responsibilities are keeping track of all the paperwork, making sure the people in the ring are qualified to be there and to help the judge with the awarding of ribbons and prizes.  The steward also serves as host to the judge, arranging lunch and drinks as needed.  It helps to have a copy of the show catalog at each ring and the steward will find it easier and more efficient to make a sheet for each class in advance.

 

Business Meeting:  Planning for the club shows on April 2 and 3 are underway.  For refreshments, Gwen Testa will order and pick up sandwiches from Subway like we did last year .  We will sell the sandwiches with a bag of chips and soft drink on Saturday and leftovers will be sold on Sunday.  The show starts at 10:30am on Saturday.  Deeda said trophies and judges’ gifts are finished, but donations are still needed to help defray the cost. Frank volunteered that he will sponsor 2 trophies for Best of Breed. Please consider donating to one of the entries-contact Pat Embrey if you can help.  Grounds will be headed up by Frank Sanders with Ralph Mason (Sunday only) and Lou Testa helping.  They will meet Deeda at the site on Friday April 1 at 2pm.  Come to help if you can.  Mary will deliver trash cans, liners and scoopers to the hotel on Friday.  Jane is heading up the obedience competition.  She has a friend coming to help on Saturday and has also donated 2 high in trials awards. 

 

Mary gave a report on the club brochure.  Two rubber stamps costing $16-20 each will be ordered.  Sarah will order some parent club brochures and we will use the stamps to put our logo and web site on them.  Also Mary is planning to represent our club with a booth for Bark Around the Park at Millbrook Park on April 16th from 11am to 3pm.  The rain date is set for April 17.  Please e-mail Mary at MARYBJELICA@aol.com if you can help at this event.  The cost of the booth is $20.  Mary will hand out club brochures if we have them in time and will also hand out breeder business cards if any member wishes and can get them to her. 

 

Treasurer’s Report:  Sarah Bridges reported on the club finances.  Don’t forget your club dues for 2005 are now due.

 

Brags:  Sarah Bridges has 7 puppies from Belle and JoBert

 

 

 

EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT SHOW DOGS

 

 ANGULATION - Degree to which dog handlers will bend over backwards to  impress the judges.

 

 BALANCE - How to arrange the checkbook so your husband won't know how much money you spent on dog shows last month. Usually done in the  bathroom with the door locked

 

 BITCH - A. Name for a lady dog.

                B.. Name often overheard at dog shows, not always to  describe a lady dog

 

 COAT - The hairy covering of a dog that usually falls out about one  week before the  Specialty show

 

 DAM - A. A lady dog with children

              B. Expression frequently overheard at dog shows as losers leave the  ring

 

 ELBOW - Method of getting to ringside when late

 

 EXPRESSION - "Sweet" look adopted by dogs while staring ravenously at  chunks of liver

 

 FANCIER - Degree to which some gentlemen handlers dress more than others.

 

 FEATHERING - What winners are accused of doing to judges' nests.

 

 FRONT - Part of the dog often stacked toward the outside of the ring.

 

 HEEL - A. You feel like when your dog beats the one you had just sold  to an eager novice.

               B. Expression often screamed to attract the attention of deaf  dogs

 

 HEIGHT - As in "Maximum Allowed," a measurement which all champions  fall under by AT LEAST 1/8 inch.

 

 HOCK - A way of financing your dog shows by the use of jewelry such as  wedding rings.

 

 KENNEL - Where you go when the kids fight and your husband yells at you.

 

 LITTER - Trash left all over the building and parking lot after a dog show.

 

 MASK - What to wear when you have to show the pet you sold six months ago.

 

 MUZZLE - What to put on your kids at a dog show to prevent them from  calling your competition what they overheard you call him last night.

 

 NOSEPRINTS - Cute marks left all over your French doors.

 

 OUTCROSSING - What your husband tells the minister you are doing out in  the kennel with the dog and the bitch

 

 POINTS - Minute, invisible awards for winning which you cannot convince  your spouse are more important than cash prizes

 

 PUPPIES - Small, dog like food-processing machines with the ability to  stink up an entire house and collectively deafen a band of magpies  (These creatures have not yet been perfected, as they come with a  leaky system, and can also be dangerous to weak hearts and bank accounts.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This article is reprinted with the kind permission of the
Great Lakes Irish Wolfhound Association and Dr. Chris Krowzack. Thank you!

 

It Simply Works

Accupression Point for Bloat

By C.A. Krowzack, DVM

 

In February of 1998, the Great Lakes Irish Wolfhound Association (GLIWA) held their annual meeting. The meeting is an occasion for fellowship of the members, the club attends to business and also hosts a speaker on a special topic. In the past it has been obedience, therapy dog training, and this year the topic was acupuncture.

Dr. Debbie Mitchell gave an overview of what acupuncture is, its history and its medical uses.

Then, using a member’s dog, showed the participants several acupuncture/acupressure points that they could utilize. One point was to stimulate gastrointestinal motility to combat bloat.

This week at my clinic, a GLIWA member brought her wolfhound in for an examination. During the night Quinn had begun experiencing discomfort. He sleeps in the bedroom with his owners. The husband had worked a long day and was asleep, but the wife was awakened by the restless behavior of Quinn. When she petted him she found his abdomen severely enlarged and hard to the touch. She knew it was bloat, but didn’t know what to do. She is a small woman, and Quinn a large dog. She remembered the acupressure point Dr. Mitchell had shown and began massaging it. Within a few minutes, Quinn began passing "a lot of gas" and his abdomen became smaller and softer. The husband and wife brought Quinn in the next morning to make sure he was all right, and because he had diarrhea.

On examination, Quinn was completely normal. He was not experiencing discomfort upon palpation, and no abnormalities beside the diarrhea could be found. Because she remembered the acupressure point, the wife had saved Quinn’s life. The acupressure point is on the hind leg. If you start at the hock, on the front of the leg (anterior) you can feel the tibia. Move your hand up the leg along the tibia’s sharp crest; what in humans would be called the shin. As your hand approaches the stifle, or the "knee" the crest becomes very pronounced and then curls around to the outside (laterally). Just inside this curve is a depression. The acupressure point is in this depression. An acupuncturist might insert a needle into this spot, or inject a liquid, but, as Quinn’s owners will attest, massaging also stimulates the point. The gastrointestinal tract starts to contract and move (peristalsis) and expels the built up gas before torsion can occur. If torsion has occurred, massaging the spot will not help.

I don’t recommend this procedure instead of veterinary treatment, but begun early, or on the way for veterinary treatment, can save your hound’s life!

 

 

 

CAR SICKNESS

I don’t know how many of you are plagued with carsick dogs, but for some reason I seem to be, so here are some tips from the internet. I can’t vouch for them, but at least they give us something to use other than Dramamine.

 

1.  The anti static strips that hang off the back bumper work great!!! they drag on the ground and do something mystical.. I can swear by them!!

 

2.  also, Vitamin  B 12 about 1/2 hour before trips helps as well… try both..!

………

3.  My vet (who has a German Shepherd from us who was car sick before he made it  to the end of her 35 foot driveway) learned this in puppy kindergarten. She  swears there is no medical reason for this to work, but it worked like a  charm for her (and her car sick boy), and now she swears by it - powdered   sugar on the back of their tongue before you start - she tells me that he  never got car sick after she started this. It's cheap and sure worth a try!


4.  I have heard that Ginger Capsules work (they didn’t work for my dogs).  Or to try Gingersnap cookies. 

 

5.We have had very good luck with Borax pills. They are probably about .1 the size of a pea. We give our dogs 4 or 5 of these little pills about 30 minutes before we leave, and then again just before we start out. Since they are so small, you have to be sure the dogs swallow them, and don't inhale them. It is a Homeopathic medicine, also used in treating Thrush in people. We buy it from Washington Homeopathic Products in Bethesda,
MD. 1-800-336-1695,
www.homeopathyworks.com.

 



BARK COLLARS\

 

Here are some other ideas I have some across

 

Can anyone give some ideas for whom to get a bark collar from, what  type, rechargeable vs battery etc.?

 

Since I live in the suburbs, I have to keep my dogs quiet. Otherwise the police hear about it.  The only thing that works on them is the Tri-tronics brand.  They laugh at the kind that shoots citronella in front of their noses!  I do use the citronella

on the puppies less than a year old if their barking becomes a problem as I don't like to "shock" puppies.  I have tried different brands but nothing  else works.

 

As for batteries, I prefer the replaceable ones.  They last a long time.  The rechargeable runs out too fast and I never know when it  needs recharging  unless the dogs start barking their fool heads off!

 

The number for Tri-tronics is 1-800-456-9494 to order.  For customer service it is 1-800-456-4343. 

 

 

 

BI-COLORS AND BLACK AND TANS

By

Barbara Williams

A Very Well Known and Knowledgeable GSD Lady

 

In the past (and I still do) we referred to a dog or bitch who had a saddle  that covered the neck and extended down the entire back and  croup and usually the top hairs on the tail, as a 'BLANKET'. .The SADDLES  were  marked  with a distinct saddle that covered the back, but not the neck or croup, much like a 'saddle' on a horse. Bi colors simply referred to a black  dog with some other color(hence the term 'Bi' for two colors), on it's feet, and  possibly  a small chest marking, but usually a solid black head altho when pulling back the  hair sometimes a small amount of another color was seen, above the eyes and /or  muzzle, or under the tail or behind the ears at the base. .

In the past, ' Bi's' were usually considered  to be a true 'Bi',  when a very dark dog exhibited a CREAM or  SILVER  marking on the feet and perhaps up the foreleg.If a dog was almost black, but  with a very deep, rich tan marking on the feet or legs,  we called them black and tans ..These 'black

and tans' , usually produced rich pigmented progeny. The Bi's with black, but cream and silver markings, did not always produce  rich pigment in their  saddle or blanket offspring.   A true black and red ,or tan, with a distinct saddle will often carry 3 colors. The body color may be  gold or red,  and the saddle or blanket black,  but they often have  silver or cream in the neck  hairs, and forechest.. It's been my experience that  almost solid blacks, with rich reddish tan feet and leg  markings,can  be from a Sire who carries the solid black factor but  the Dam  of this dog, doesn't, or vice versa.  In other words  only one  parent  carries the solid black factor. . Just an observation

 

 

 

 

GROOMING TIPS

More Internet Tips I have picked up through the years..

 

Behavior

    Socialize, socialize, socialize!  Get your dogs out of the kennel and take them with you wherever you go, whether itbs to the kids softball game, the dry cleaners, or Jack In The Box.  As a side note, Ive found that several of the fast food drive through restaurants in this area give dog cookies when theres a dog in the car!

 

Care for the Coat

    A healthy coat comes from the inside out.  As Sharlonna told me the first time I met her when I asked her what made the dogs coat so shiny, Its not what you put on your dog, itbs what you put in them!b  A nutritious diet (whatever is the best for your dogs - God knows none of us can agree on the   best diet!! :>) ) is the most important factor (other than genetics) to determine a healthy coat.  Having said that, the following products/tips were given:

    Bathing: The dog should always be bathed immediately prior to a show and blown dry.  It not only makes the dog look its best, but helps get their     attitude up.

    Start grooming on the judges side.  In case you get tired, the first side will look the best.

    Regular brushing is a must.

    Stuff thats sprayed on the dog:  most people are just spraying water for last minute touch-ups.  Dogs have bad hair days just like we do!  In that case, hair spray, conditioners, or straighteners come in handy.

    Take 1 tablespoon of  peopleb  hair conditioner and dilute it in a spray bottle with warm water.  Spray all over the dog, comb through, towel dry, then blow dry the dog.

    Blow drying tips:  Blow against the lay of the hair all over except the back, neck and croup, which should lie flat.     Get a dematter made by Cherry Brook - the white one with curved teeth. Helps to smooth wavy hair.  Brush away from the dog in the croup area.  Also can use a Greyhound comb to combat matting.

    This isnbt exactly about coats - but - use Vitamin E cream on the nose and foot pads after bathing to erase dry skin and give a nice, dark look.     Another thing thats not about coats :>) Advantage continues to work even if you bathe the dog, just be sure to wait a few days before bathing.

    Invest in your own grooming kit:  a powerful dryer, extension cord, a garden sprayer (like for insecticides) full of water (in case theres not water for bathing at the show site), Shine, brushes, rakes, combs, extra

collars and leashes, face cloth, towels, fixative (for cow-licks), Cindra Reconstructor, mousse, hair spray, first aid kit, sun screen, Immodium, pain killers for the handlers (non prescription, of course), Tums for the

Butterflies in your stomach, and if youre really lucky, your own generator!

Sharon of Coda German Shepherds also gets and award because she mentioned the special bottles in the cooler that she brings for after the show!

    Look for the best looking dogs, watch the groomers technique and ask questions.

    Recommended products:  Bio-Vite shampoo by Crown Royal for body and shine, Crown Royal Bodifier diluted 1:5 (put on after drying and then dry again), a teaspoon of corn oil daily in their food, liver 3 times weekly, Inflight, Nupro, #1 All Systems Care products, Nova Pearls Moisturizing Shampoo by Tomlyn, Hoka Mix or Peak Performance oral supplements, and Cindra reconstructor.   JB Wholesale was recommended as a good source of information

with knowledgeable show breeder employees who know what they’re talking about!

 

Ears

    Clean regularly (weekly) and last cleaning should not be done on the day of the show.  Reason?  The dog may go into the ring shaking its head trying to get the last of the gook out!      Don’t use straight rubbing alcohol as it may be too drying to the skin.     Most people fill the ear canal with the cleaning solution, swish it around and let the dog shake its head to get rid of the excess solution. Follow that by wiping the ear out with a cotton ball.  Repeat until the cotton ball comes out clean.  Side note:  As a pharmacist, I advise patients to warm the solution before putting it into the ear.  Test the temperature by placing the bottle against the back of your wrist (just like a baby bottle). Cold solutions in the ear are painful!!     Never use Q-Tips!  One slip can puncture the ear drum.  Actually John DeHope pointed out that this isnt quite true because the dogs ear canal  isn’t straight, like a humans ear, but rather sort of bulb so you shouldn’t even be near the ear drum.  We bow to John, because he does know everything!!  But be careful with Q-tips just the same!

    Suggestions for cleaning solutions:  Betadine/vinegar/alcohol (equal parts I imagine, the author didn’t elaborate), half and half vinegar and rubbing alcohol, Novasan Otic.

 

Nails

    Trimming prior to a show is a must!  Its best to do the last trimming a couple of days prior to a show rather than immediately before the show.  The reason for this is in case the blood vessel in the nail is cut, these few

days will allow the nail to heal and the dog wont be limping in the ring.

    Trim the nails regularly. Regularly varies from dog to dog but usually once every week or two, weekly if grinding, every 2 weeks if clipping.  When the nails click on the kitchen floor, is a good indication that you may have waited too long!     Regular trimming helps keep the feet tight and prevent splaying

(straightening out of the toes).

    After trimming with clippers (or instead of clippers) use a Dremmel or grinder to smooth the edges.  If you use a grinder, put a drop of oil on the nail afterwards to get rid of the dusty  look and prevent splitting.

    Cookies after trimming and snuggles during trimming make it a little easier.

 

Teeth

    Brush their teeth with a doggy tooth paste.

    Taxi Groom solution made by Cherry Brook came highly recommended!

    Dentatreat by Wysong  powder sprinkled on their food helps cut down tartar build-up, and abrades existing tartar.

 

 

Conditioning

    The purpose of conditioning is to increase endurance and increase muscle tone.  A dog in good condition will have firm muscle tone without softness, rolling or spinginess.

    Most responders roadwork their dogs on a bike.  Length varies; start slowly, usually about 1/2 mile, gradually increasing up to 2-3 miles as the dog tolerates.  Duration varied depending on the dogs speed, usually 10-20 minutes.  Frequency varied from daily to 2 or 3 times per week.  Go at the speed required to keep the dog gaiting.  Stop when the dog appears tired or their tongue starts hanging out of their mouths!

    Talk to the dogs during this one-on-one time them telling them how wonderful they are!

    ALWAYS wait a couple of hours after exercising the dog to feed them or at least crate them for 30 minutes before feeding.

    Road work in the morning or evening when its cool, you can also hose them off to cool them down when you get home.

    If swimming the dog, the duration is the same as road working the dog. Following swimming, if done in a pool, be sure to rinse all the chlorine out of the coat.  Chlorine left to dry in the coat can cause hair breakage.

    Keep the dog on a leash while in the pool as you walk along the perimeter of the deck.  If you are in the pool with the dog, wearing a wetsuit protects you from getting scratched accidentally and keeps you warm!

    When swimming the dog in bright sunlight, put a doggy baseball cap on them to protect their eyes.

    One responder felt swimming may build too much muscle in the front and restrict front reach, but felt it was very good for weak pasterns.  

 

  If youre very talented you can road work the dogs from a vehicle. Go 5-7 miles/hour for no more than 2 miles.

    Stop road working on the Thursday prior to any show.

 

Training

    Start by teaching the dog to stand , then stack, followed by Stay.

Gradually increasing the duration of the stay.  Eventually teach them turn for the out and back.

    Get the dog to a handling class, if available.

    Smart dogs get bored quickly, vary the routine and dont overtrain.

 

 

Why are dogs at the specialties thinner than those at all breeds?

    The specialty dog is most likely in better condition.  They have to bebecause for the most part the specialty rings are much bigger than the all breed rings......Lets take them around one more time.....!  Usually you

want to see or feel the last rib.     Another thought was that all breed judges prefer plush coats and pretty,

standing dogs.  Specialty judges focus on movement.

 

My dog behaves badly when he s taken away from me.  What can I do to change that?

    Linda Bankhead gets the gold star for the first place response:  Mine does too.  That is how you know they love you.  I would never change that!

:-)

 

 

Following is a great recipe if your dogs don’t want to eat. 

RAW SATIN BALLS

1 lb Hamburger
1 lb ground chicken or ground chicken wings
1 lb of other meats (liver, heart, pork) or more hamburger
2 cups rolled oats (uncooked)
enough cream to cover oats and soak
3 raw eggs, whole
1 jar of wheat germ (15 oz.)
1 jar peanut butter

Soak oats for 20 minutes in the cream. Mix all ingredients in a large container, divide it and roll into 2" meatballs. If mixture is too dry, add about 1/4 cup of cream to moisten. Freeze and store in a Ziploc in the freezer. Feed a giant breed dog 3-4 frozen balls per day.

 

 

TRY AND MAKE IT TO THE SHOW WE’D LOVE TO SEE ALL OF YOU. 

ALSO, IF YOU HAVEN’T PAID YOUR DUES YET, PLEASE DO SO AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

 

THE EDITOR

 

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